Appell Rose Base

Louis Appell has some amazing formulae and bases in his book The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics Fragrances and Flavors and one in particular is a real favorite of mine. He calls it “Rose W” and has this to say about rose bases in general: “Absolutes of rose [around $4,000 per kg] and jasmine are particularly important.

“Either alone or combined they impart strength and quality to any well-blended perfume, cost being the only factor that limits their use. When substitutes must be considered, foremost among these are Firmenich’s Wardia [$1,030 per kg] and Jasmine 1974. If cost is still too high, Rose W and Jasmin Flower 100 should be tried.”

Rose W is a very beautiful vintage scented rose base. Unlike the modern bases such as dorinia, the focus is on the scent of old fashioned roses and not special effects such as dew drops. Dorinia is far too heavy for many older type fragrances though it is beautiful and well suited to modern fragrances in which it can stand alone (one example of this is Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection by Etat Libre d`Orange which smells to me like it has a very high dose).

Presented here are two formulae – the first is Appell’s Rose Base 30 which forms the basis of Rose W. I have made some minor additions to both accords to take advantage of some chemicals that were not in common use when Appell wrote the book – mostly for naturalness and richness. The end result is a beautiful vintage rose that sits well in pretty much any vintage formula. It is a lot of work but well worth the effort in the end. And the best part is that the total cost of this accord (using as many naturals as possible) is around $600 per kilo—and even less if you opt to use synthetic versions of the perfume chemicals.

Rose Base 30 Formula

You should make this base up at least a week before proceeding with the vintage rose base – in order to give the ingredients time to meld together and soften.

Quantity Ingredient Comments
160 Citronellol
125 Phenylethyl Alcohol
125 Cinnamic Alcohol
120 Geraniol
100 Linalyl Acetate
80 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde
60 Linalool
40 Benzyl Acetate
25 Geranium Bourbon
25 Ambrettolide
20 Clove Bud
13 Cyclamen Aldehyde
10 Phenyl Acetaldehyde
10 Ylang Ylang
10 Benzyl Formate
5 Guaiac Wood
5 Geranyl Acetate
3 Indole
3 Phenylethyl Acetate
2 Phenylacetic Acid
2 Damascenone
1 Para Cresyl Acetate
10 Aldehyde C-11 Undec. 10%
10 Aldehyde C-9 10%
10 Rose Oxide 10%
10 Beta Damascone 10%
2 Methyl Octine Carbonate 10%
10 Dimethyl Sulfide 1%

Vintage Rose Base Formula

You can omit the use of rose otto, rose absolute, and orris root and still have a perfectly wonderful rose base. They are included for naturalness and luxury. Removing them will considerably lower the cost of the final product.

Quantity Ingredient Comments
300 Rose Base 30 Formula above
200 Citronellol
120 Geraniol
90 Lilial Soon to be banned by IFRA
90 Clove Bud Seems a lot but works beautifully
50 Phenylethyl Alcohol A must for all rose accords
30 Ionone Beta
30 Rose Crystals
25 Cinnamic Alcohol For a rich spicy rose
25 Rosalva
20 PADMDA Phenylacetaldehyde Dimethylacetal
15 Tetrahydro Geraniol
10 Rose Otto
10 Rose Absolute Bulgaria
5 Geranium Bourbon
4 Orris Butter
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Julian Mayne
6 years ago

Thank you for the informative work on these bases. You have a obvious thirst for knowledge Jamie and I thank you for sharing your discoveries. I look forward to trying your formulas. Listverse also looks fascinating.

Gene Humbles
5 years ago

Very nice!

zafar khan
5 years ago

Kindly send us farmula of kewra z and saffron oil.

4 years ago

Thank you for posting this, Jamie. I have made these myself and the results are truly beautiful. I so agree with you!

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