Vintage Dianthine (Carnation) Base

One of the most important perfumery bases of the early 1900s was Firmenich's Dianthine base. It is a luxurious carnation accord that has not yet been surpassed in its beauty. It was used in huge amounts in many well known fragrances—Coty used 20% in his incredible L'Origan (the inspiration for L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain). Firmenich still make this base but it is, of course, IFRA approved meaning all the goodness has been stripped from it. The original Dianthine was created...
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I.D.Adam
I.D.Adam
5 years ago

Most impressive work sir. As always, your sharing the formula is generous and appreciated.

jon
jon
5 years ago

Naturally extracted Heliotropin, really?
and exactly how is that possible, from what is it extracted from?

Yankiel
Yankiel
5 years ago

I thank you eternally, for sharing your recreation of this lost gem.
Such a noble and rare gesture!

Eliam Puente
Eliam Puente
4 years ago

I found your site today and the info you provide is great! I’ve been studying perfumery for a few years now but the more I study it the more I realize how complex it can be. It now makes perfect sense that in the past you had to work under a master perfumer for 10 year before you could consider yourself a master perfumer. I appreciate your knowledge and formulas and I hope this is something you will continue sharing. Thanks! PS: I’ve been playing around with an oriental formula with lots of benzyl salicylate, ylang, and eugenol so this… Read more »

David J Goodwin
David J Goodwin
4 years ago

This is certainly a beginners question, but what do your numerical measures represent? Grams? Ppm? Do you dilute all your materials to a standard concentration like 10%? I’m thinking I should have started doing this ages ago…

Guido
Guido
3 months ago

Para-Cresyl Caprylate, that’s the only ingrediënt I couldn’t find unfortunately.
Is there anything similar? Or should I add something to methyl Diantilis that I have?
Thank you very much for sharing this formula.

Last edited 3 months ago by Guido
Florian
Florian
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

I used para cresyl acetate instead of the caprylate (half the amount) and it worked out really good in my opinion

Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Florian

I have ordered para cresyl phenyl acetate, also wanted para cresyl acetate but I forgot to add it so that really sucks, I tried Pellwall but unfortunately they haven’t got it, maybe Liaison Carbon.

Florian
Florian
3 months ago
Reply to  Guido
Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Florian

That’s great thank you very much Florian, how silly of my not to check Hexapus in the first place…!

Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

That is some good advice, thank you! Now that I know to order the para cresyl acetate at Hexapus, it could be interesting for other things I am still looking for.

Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thank you very much for your help, I’ve ordered a lot of chemicals yesterday but forgot to add the para cresyl acetate, but I have ordered para cresyl Phenyl acetate…could I use that? If I knew about cyclopidene I certainly would have added that to my shopping card at Perfumer apprentice. Next time I’ll order cyclopidene for sure..

Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

I’ve received an email from Rebekka of Liaison Carbon, and she’s putting in a bottle of cyclopidene 1% with my order for me isn’t that great news!!!

Jamie: how much of the 1 % concentration of cyclopidene is should use?

Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thank you, so you mean I should start of with the 1% concentration at 10?

Guido
Guido
3 months ago

Today I got a reply from Sigma/Merck about my order of Piperonal… I am not allowed to buy this without a license… I should have know better that this is a illegal chemical… that really is a bummer.
Jamie is there any substitute for Heliotropine ? Maybe Heliotropex? Thanks in advance.

Last edited 3 months ago by Guido
Guido
Guido
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thank you for your reply, I think I will experiment with Heliotropex N and Veratraldehyde to see what effect they have, preparing two small batches.

Florian
Florian
3 months ago
Reply to  Guido

Im using Heliotropex N by IFF, havnt got real Heliotropin so i cant compare it.
The only thing i dont really know is how to use it as a replacer.
Perfumers Apprentice says you use it at 15% as a replacer and Hexapus says u can use it undiluted as a replacer

Florian
Florian
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Okay i will try my best to figure it Out because getting piperonal is allmost Impossible to get in Germany.
Or as Chris Bartlett from PellWall Said, He uses veratraldehyde as a Direct replacer for heliotropin

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