Rose D'Orient (Oriental Rose) bases were early attempts to replicate the essential oils of rose (typically Bulgarian - or Rose Damascena). Two in particular were very popular with one featuring as the main rose in Coty's La Rose Jacqueminot and later L'Origan. The formula presented here is for a modernised Rose D'Orient. It is based on the vintage style but with the addition of some modern chemicals and with a bit of help from gas chromatography which has, in modern...
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Any substitute for the Rhodinyl Formate or ommit it?
The formate is a leafy and drier version of the acetate so you could sub in rhodinyl acetate or omit it entirely and maybe play with increasing the geranyl acetate a bit. If you do ever get a chance to buy rhodinyl formate, I recommend it – it’s really a very beautiful material. It makes my mouth water for some weird reason 🙂
Haha, that’s clear thank you. I certainly will order the rhodinyl formate if I can find a supplier 🙂
And I also couldn’t find: Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate
It’s a slightly mushroomy lactonic note, it was to add complexity. I wouldn’t be overly concerned if you can’t include it. Having said that, if you do really want the tiglate, I got mine from Perfumer Supply House as a special order.
Thank you I’ll keep that in mind for the next time, I will ask Christine for the Phenyl Ethyl Tiglate when ordering next time.
For now I ommit it in this formula.
Would I be able to up the eugenol (or sub iso eugenol) instead of the methyl eugenol or would it be better to omit?
You could up the eugenol or add a bit of pimento berry perhaps.
I am trying to order Phenyl acetic acid, only 5g from Sigma.. fingers crossed.
Last time I’ve tried to order Piperonal from Sigma, unfortunately with no success… what are they thinking I’ll prepare drugs with 10g? seriously…??!
I am afraid this will happen also for the Phenyl acetic acid… but let’s wait and see…
Good luck! If that fails in the end you may have to try things like methyl phenyl acetate which also has a honeyed pungency.
This base is incredible, the only ingredient I couldn’t get is the Rhodinyl Formate. A very powerful base this is, a small dap on my wrist left a scent trail that turned heads!!
Jamie: how long do you normally leave this to mature?
It is a go-to for me so I keep a half KG constantly ready to go – my recent batch is over a year old.