Free Formula: Summer

In perfume, the nearly odorless solar chemical benzyl salicylate has a magical power to open a fragrance up and add freshness, beauty, and radiance. Coco, by Chanel, is beautiful with its clove, patchouli, and lily of the valley components, but when benzyl salicylate is added to the mix, those three are transformed into the gorgeous Mellis accord – also found (with amber) in Opium by Yves Saint Laurent. In the words of famed perfumer Bernard Chant: “it produces a diffusing, blooming effect very pleasing to the public.”

The other main use of benzyl salicylate is in suntan lotions. This is partly because it was used in one of the first lotions and so became known for that purpose, but also because it has an indeterminate floral/musk scent that lends itself to fragrances that are more abstract.

In this fun little formula an overdose of the ingredient is blended with an overdose of another nearly odorless ingredient benzyl benzoate and amyl salicylate with its mildly orchid scent to give a salty suntan lotion vibe. This is paired with another massive overdose of gamma nonalactone which smells like coconut. Floral notes and green notes make this a beautiful summer fragrance (unisex) that will be loved by all. I cannot recommend this enough.

This scent has a very similar profile to the dry down of the wonderful Carolina Herrera 212 VIP men.

Top Notes

Bergamot, Rosewood, Mandarin
Passionfruit, Coconut, Pink Pepper
Cardamom, Cut Grass, Fresh Air

Heart Notes

Ylang Ylang, Lily of the Valley, Osmanthus
Gardenia, Orchid, Sea Salt

Base Notes

Musk, Ambergris, Benzoin
Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka Bean

The Formula

Quantity Ingredient Comments
150 Hedione
130 Benzyl Salicylate Natural
105 Benzyl Benzoate
100 Habanolide Musk
100 Timbersilk IFF
80 Ambrox Super Firmenich
50 Linalyl Acetate
30 Florol
30 Rosewood Brazil Rosewood Oil Replacer
25 Ylang Ylang Superior Extra Best you can find
22 Helional
20 Nonalactone Gamma 100% Coconut
20 Coumarin
15 Bergamot Bergaptene Free
15 Gardenia Storm Auram International
13 Amyl Salicylate
10 Passionfruit Base Firmenich
10 Benzoin Resin
10 Firsantol Sandalwood, Firmenich
10 Muscone Laevo
8 Ultrazur
7 Exaltolide
6 Scentolide
5 Mandarin Base
5 Vanillin
4 Javanol
3 Pink Pepper CO2
2 Cis 3 Hexenol 100%
5 Cis 3 Hexenyl Acetate 10%
5 Cardamom C02 10%
3 Osmanthus Absolute 10%
2 Calone 10%
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