Patron Formula: Summer

In perfume, the nearly odorless solar chemical benzyl salicylate has a magical power to open a fragrance up and add freshness, beauty, and radiance. Coco, by Chanel, is beautiful with its clove, patchouli, and lily of the valley components, but when benzyl salicylate is added to the mix, those three are transformed into the gorgeous Mellis accord - also found (with amber) in Opium by Yves Saint Laurent. In the words of famed perfumer Bernard Chant: “it produces a diffusing,...
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Guido
Guido
7 months ago

My blend has a strong cucumber smell, cut grass almost wet dog, I am not sure what’s wrong and it doesn’t evolve in a softer more tropical or fruity scent…, I am afraid I don’t like it, maybe it has to sit a bit longer. I haven’t used mandarin base, instead of that I’ve used Mandarin Red super conc.from Hermitage oils. Maybe it’s the Ultrazur or the Calone in combination with the Cis chemicals….I don’t know…

Guido
Guido
7 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Yes I have used the passionfruit and coconut full amount, And a sweet Gardenia base, I must have done something wrong… because I’m also expecting something different and not an Uber fresh watermelon/cucumber smell.. I am going to blend this again for sure because this isn’t right.

Guido
Guido
7 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Funny thing is that my diluted blend of last week smells different when sprayed on a table, I can smell the tropical vibe immediately. But after a while the Ultrazur/Calone -ish vibe shows itself. Could be I’ve overdosed one of the two accidently resulting in the marine, ozonic, watermelon smell overpowering it. Reading the Basenotes forums subject about Ultrazur explains the potency of this ingredient. Anyway, I am going to blend this formula again some time and I am going to use the Rosewood replacer next time, last time I’ve used Hermitage’s Bois de Rose E.O super premium, but that… Read more »

Last edited 7 months ago by Guido
Florian
Florian
7 months ago
Reply to  Guido

I honestly have the Same Problem.
At First its coconutty and tropical but forms Into a strong Marine smell, i personally dont dislike that but my Girlfriend hates that really much, she Said after showing her the neat ultrazur that it allmost just smells like that

Guido
Guido
7 months ago
Reply to  Florian

Thanks Florian, that could make sence. Maybe the Ultrazur has to be a 10% dilution? That leaves room for experimenting!

Florian
Florian
7 months ago
Reply to  Guido

Yes!
Just got an E-Mail from PellWall that Coranol is back in stock there

Guido
Guido
7 months ago
Reply to  Florian

Same for me..have to order it ASAP! Thanks anyway for mentioning it.

Guido
Guido
7 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Great, I am very curious what will be the result after mixing! what are the changes in this formula in terms of weight, which ingredients are increased? I don’t have the first formula here to compare.

Guido
Guido
7 months ago
Reply to  Guido

Forgot to mention that I’ve ordered some chemicals such as Ambrox Super, Dimethyl Anthranilate (mandarin base) linalool oxide (Rosewood replacer).
I want to use exactly the same ingredients/bases next time.
My substitutes last time were: Ambroxan, Mandarin Red conc. Hermitage rosewood.

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