Free Formula: Summer

In perfume, the nearly odorless solar chemical benzyl salicylate has a magical power to open a fragrance up and add freshness, beauty, and radiance. Coco, by Chanel, is beautiful with its clove, patchouli, and lily of the valley components, but when benzyl salicylate is added to the mix, those three are transformed into the gorgeous Mellis accord – also found (with amber) in Opium by Yves Saint Laurent. In the words of famed perfumer Bernard Chant: “it produces a diffusing, blooming effect very pleasing to the public.”

The other main use of benzyl salicylate is in suntan lotions. This is partly because it was used in one of the first lotions and so became known for that purpose, but also because it has an indeterminate floral/musk scent that lends itself to fragrances that are more abstract.

Here the overdose of benzyl salicylate is paired with another massive overdose of gamma nonalactone which smells like coconut. Floral notes and green notes make this a beautiful summer fragrance (unisex) that will be loved by all. I cannot recommend this enough.


Top Notes

Bergamot, Rosewood, Mandarin
Passionfruit, Coconut, Pink Pepper
Cardamom, Cut Grass

Heart Notes

Ylang Ylang, Gardenia, Osmanthus

Base Notes

Musk, Ambergris, Benzoin
Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka Bean


The Formula

Quantity Ingredient Comments
250 Benzyl Salicylate Natural
150 Hedione
100 Habanolide Bright, diffuse Musk
100 Timbersilk IFF
80 Ambrox Super Firmenich
50 Linalyl Acetate
30 Florol
30 Rosewood Brazil Rosewood Oil Replacer
25 Ylang Ylang Extra (Comoros) Best you can find
20 Helional
20 Nonalactone Gamma 100% Coconut
20 Coumarin
15 Bergamot Bergaptene Free
15 Gardenia Storm Auram International
10 Passionfruit Base Firmenich
20 Benzoin Resin 50%
10 Dartanol Laevo-Bacdanol, Firmenich
10 Muscenone
7 Exaltone CAS: 502-72-7
6 Scentolide
5 Mandarin Base
5 Vanillin
4 Javanol
3 Pink Pepper CO2
2 Cis 3 Hexenol 100%
5 Cis 3 Hexenyl Acetate 10%
5 Cardamom C02 10%
3 Osmanthus Absolute 10%
1000
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Guido
Guido
2 months ago

My blend has a strong cucumber smell, cut grass almost wet dog, I am not sure what’s wrong and it doesn’t evolve in a softer more tropical or fruity scent…, I am afraid I don’t like it, maybe it has to sit a bit longer. I haven’t used mandarin base, instead of that I’ve used Mandarin Red super conc.from Hermitage oils. Maybe it’s the Ultrazur or the Calone in combination with the Cis chemicals….I don’t know…

Guido
Guido
2 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Yes I have used the passionfruit and coconut full amount, And a sweet Gardenia base, I must have done something wrong… because I’m also expecting something different and not an Uber fresh watermelon/cucumber smell.. I am going to blend this again for sure because this isn’t right.

Guido
Guido
2 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Funny thing is that my diluted blend of last week smells different when sprayed on a table, I can smell the tropical vibe immediately. But after a while the Ultrazur/Calone -ish vibe shows itself. Could be I’ve overdosed one of the two accidently resulting in the marine, ozonic, watermelon smell overpowering it. Reading the Basenotes forums subject about Ultrazur explains the potency of this ingredient. Anyway, I am going to blend this formula again some time and I am going to use the Rosewood replacer next time, last time I’ve used Hermitage’s Bois de Rose E.O super premium, but that… Read more »

Last edited 2 months ago by Guido
Florian
Florian
2 months ago
Reply to  Guido

I honestly have the Same Problem.
At First its coconutty and tropical but forms Into a strong Marine smell, i personally dont dislike that but my Girlfriend hates that really much, she Said after showing her the neat ultrazur that it allmost just smells like that

Guido
Guido
2 months ago
Reply to  Florian

Thanks Florian, that could make sence. Maybe the Ultrazur has to be a 10% dilution? That leaves room for experimenting!

Florian
Florian
2 months ago
Reply to  Guido

Yes!
Just got an E-Mail from PellWall that Coranol is back in stock there

Guido
Guido
2 months ago
Reply to  Florian

Same for me..have to order it ASAP! Thanks anyway for mentioning it.

Guido
Guido
2 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Great, I am very curious what will be the result after mixing! what are the changes in this formula in terms of weight, which ingredients are increased? I don’t have the first formula here to compare.

Guido
Guido
2 months ago
Reply to  Guido

Forgot to mention that I’ve ordered some chemicals such as Ambrox Super, Dimethyl Anthranilate (mandarin base) linalool oxide (Rosewood replacer).
I want to use exactly the same ingredients/bases next time.
My substitutes last time were: Ambroxan, Mandarin Red conc. Hermitage rosewood.

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