Free Formula: Flowers On The Avenue

On a recent trip to New York I spent the afternoon with Christine from PerfumerSupplyHouse. We had a great time sniffing various samples she had brought with her and samples I had carried from New Zealand for her. Christine had with her a small amount of peach leaf absolute which was amazing! I am fanatical about leaf absolutes of any kind (mango leaf, rose leaf, violet leaf, etc) so I decided to make a perfume with a peach note.

Ultimately it ended up being significantly bigger than just a peachy perfume and the result was a huge bombshell of a floral aldehyde which ended up very reminiscent of a combination of Bois des Iles and Chanel No 22, both by Ernest Beaux in his early days at Chanel. This is a costly fragrance and absolutely not compatible with IFRA (or EU regulations potentially) but it is definitely one worth making for yourself or to give away to loved ones.

It is very floral and would most likely be preferred by ladies, but these days anything goes and it is perfectly fine for a gentleman to wear as well.

Top Notes

Aldehydes, Neroli, Peach

Heart Notes

Iris, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine
Tuberose, Rose, Orange Blossom

Base Notes

Musk, Ambergris, Amber
Opoponax, Vanilla, Sandalwood
Vetiver, Precious Woods, Peach Leaf

The Formula

As usual I have ordered the formula from largest to least amount of ingredients and, where possible, I have named substitutes as some of the items in the formula may be difficult for some to come by.

Quantity Ingredient Comments
116 Hedione
102 French Jasmine Absolute A good replica would also be fine
100 Helvetolide Lovely musk with a pear-like top note quality
82 Ylang Ylang Extra
80 Iralia (Firmenich) Cheaper methyl ionones are fine also
55 Linalool ex Bois de Rose Synthetic would suffice
43 Cyclosia (Firmenich) Hydroxycitronellal
40 Irrozol (Auram) Iris Base
40 Methyl Cedryl Ketone
30 Tubereuse (Firmenich) Tuberose base
30 Muscenone
25 Iso E Super
18 Rose Wardia (Firmenich) Rose de Mai base
16 Opoponax Doux (Auram) Opoponax base
15 Linalyl Acetate
10 Neroli Bigarade Neroli base
10 Tonkin Musk Replacer Tonquitone or Shangralide would work
8 Hedione High Cis
8 Vanillin
8 Vetiverol
8 Santalol
15 Benzoin Resin 50%
7 Exaltolide
6 Ambrettolide
5 Fixateur 505 Ambrox at 10% dilution
5 Timbersilk
30 Aldehyde C-10 10%
30 Aldehyde C-11 Undecylenic 10%
30 Aldehyde C-12 MNA 10%
3 Bulgarian Rose Otto Rose oil replacer will work
3 Orange Blossom Absolute Orange Blossom replacer will work
2 Orris Butter
10 Gamma Undecalactone 10%
1 Peach Leaf Absolute Thanks Christine!
1 Carrot Seed Oil
5 Ambergris Tincture 10%
3 Violet Leaf Absolute 10%
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2 years ago

This is a truly beautiful scent. Thank you so much for sharing, Jamie!

Jamie Frater
2 years ago
Reply to  Al

Thanks Al

Thomas Franzetti
Thomas Franzetti
2 years ago

Hi Jamie. I am making a batch of your formula and I am wondering if I could go crazy and replace the 4% Irrozol by the same amount of orris butter (15% irone). I really love orris butter but would it be really too much of it in comparison with the 0.2% that you used ?

Jamie Frater
2 years ago

Hey Thomas – that would definitely not have the same effect and would be very pricey – though you could do it of course if you liked the smell. If you were going to remove it I would suggest a mix of ionones instead – maybe 2% alpha ionone and another 2% iralia – or beta ionone for a fruitier result.

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