Everyone loves Aventus by Creed. It is their number one best selling fragrance and probably the most cloned. Sauvage by Christian Dior and more recently Mont Blanc’s Explorer are very similar in style (Explorer being virtually a clone – and considered better than Aventus by some reviewers!)
When perfume reviewers and experts are asked “what fragrance most smells of money [in the metaphorical sense]”, Aventus is the immediate answer. It is sublime.
This formula is my own attempt to make a good clone of Aventus. It is based on GCMS data, inside information, and my own nose. Buy the formula here:
What Pineapple base did you use? Or do you have a formula for it aswell?
I cant seem to find one.
And would be Cassis Base 345F work too?
For Creosol i could use Guaiacol and for Costus root i would use Animalis 1745-03.
What do you think about that?
This is the Pina Colada Formula from Perfumers Apprentice.
Allyl Caproate – 10
Methyl Cinnamate – 10
Isopropyl Methyl 2 Butyrate – 10
Florhydral – 20
Vanillin @ 10% – 40
Galaxolide 50% – 50
Pharaone 10 – 50
Ethyl Maltol @ 1% – 70
Aldehyde C16 – 100
Aldehyde C18 – 130
Hedione – 250
Methyl Laitone 10 – 260
When i leave out Methyl Laitone and Aldehyde C18 would it work as a Pineapple base?
Sorry i dont know how to edit posts with the new commentar function.
For the Isobutyl Quinoline, Ive got CAS-NO: 68198-80-1
And i could get Cas-NO: 65442-31-1
Would one of them work?
No – the isobutyl quinoline in Aventus is VERY different from what most people know. 65442-31-1 is the typical form used as a leather base through most of the 20th century (the best version of it is called Pyralone). The 93-19-6 has an oiliness to it and a different vibe – one that balances very well with pineapple.
I think yes – methyl laitone and C18 are both lactonic and coconuty. They will be adding a creamy complexity. Omitting them will remove the coconut notion of the Pina colada (which is coconut and pineapple in drink form).
Here’s a pineapple you can use – this is very strong (due to the megadose of neobutenone) but it works very well with this formula:
300 Neobutenone alpha
100 Manzanate
200 Allyl heptanoate
30 Ethyl caproate
5 Pineapple Jam flavor (perfumers apprentice make a suitable one)
5 Tropathiane at 0.1% dilution
360 Triethyl citrate (any dilutent will do)
Hi Jamie, how different is Neobutenone alpha from Dynascone as they both have same cas# and both are Firmenich products?
Neobutenone is the perfected form. You can use dynascone but neobutenone is what was used in the real fragrance. This is similar to the difference between helvetolide and dextro-helvetolide. The latter is kept captive by Firmenich and is more pure, elegant, and refined. In the case of neobutenone they sell it to the public also. The pineapple effect is more profound in neobutenone alpha. Here are the data sheets from Firmenich for both – they give extra information: neobutenone alpha and dynascone.
Can Spirogalbanone play any role here?
Cassis base won’t do the same thing at all – not a good substitute. Guiacol is not a good substitute for creosol – leave it out entirely if you don’t have it – it is just a naturaliser for the vanillin to make it seem more like vanilla absolute. For costus no – animalis (especially these days) is a terrible substitute for costus. Original animalis actually had costus oil in it. If you have access to Vigon – you can get a costus oil sample from them. If you want to be legislatively and IFRA compliant you can’t use the… Read more »
Thank you for the good suggestions.
The only thing left would be:
What could i do when i cant get my hands on Isobutyl Quinoline 2, the one with Cas-No: 93-19-6 even if its not as good then?
I’ll send you a small amount with your samples.
Hi Jamie,
Is there a something I could substitute for Coranol. I was ready to add it to an order at Pellwall but itās out of stock, thatās most unfortunate… or maybe could I use tetrahydrolinalool and coriander seed?
Thanks!
Maybe Linalool leave natural isolate from Hermitage oils could be a good substitute, Reading the information it has very similar and powerful..
If U want to make this Formula, where did you get isobutyl quinoline with CAS: 93-19-6?
That isnt offered anywhere in small amounts i think.
I couldnt make it because of that, Just got a different isobutyl quinoline
Does it really depend on that Aroma chemical?
I am going to use pyralone I think because I couldnāt find it either.
Don’t use Pyralone – it is very different. Better to omit than replace.
I got it from Vigon.
Coranol is not about the linalool-like odor – it is very diffusive and has a profound effect on a scent. I wouldn’t substitute.
Thanks, I am going to wait when Pell Wall has Coranol in stock again.
Vigon: If I buy something in weight of 1kg e.g. Hedione, maybe I could get a sample of 93-19-6…? Or do you need a business account for that?
I’m interested in this too, how much do u have to buy to get samples at vigon
I can’t remember the total – they’ll let you know if you email them. I vaguely feel like it is $250 but I could be wrong. My orders from there are always well above that so I don’t pay much attention.
You need an account – but that’s easy enough to get. Then you need a minimum order amount – I don’t remember how much it is but I think it is a couple of hundred dollars.
I know you Said that you wouldnt substitute it but is there maybe a way even if it downgrades the scent a bit?
PellWall doesnt answer me when asking If they will Stock coranol again.
And Christine from PSH Said that she wont get it in the near future
CreatingPerfume has it. I’ve bought it from there before.
I didn’t add Coranol to my order at Creating Perfume last time, I knew Pellwall had it but I forgot to check if it was in stock…, I found out the hard way when proceeding with an order at Pellwall: no Coranol in stock, that was pretty disappointing and I’d learned my lesson then…always check if the item you want is in stock.
Oh thats good, havnt checked there somehow
Same issue here, I’ve emailed Pellwall and asked them friendly about my last order > they’ve delivered a wrong aroma chemical + I asked them about the restock of Coranol.. that was 2 weeks ago…I am not sure what’s going one but that’s certainly not the way to do business with frequent customers like me.
Allyl Caproate is which CAS number? There are many similar Ethyl / Allyl/ Caproate/ Ethyl and Allyl Hexanoate which are easily confused
Hexanoate and caproate are the same CAS: 123-68-2. Good Scents Data. Vigon supply.
Thanks for providing the Cas. It’s very confusing as you say Hexanoate and Caproate are the same however the issue is whether it is Ethyl or Allyl as there is an Ethyl Caproate and an Ethyl Hexanoate in additions to the Allyl’s.
There is an orchid like bordering pear or peach note that I detect IN SOME Aventus batches whereas others are Triplal dominant
The pear note you’re getting is Helvetolide Laevo – a captive form of helvetolide. Helvetolide (which we use here due to necessity) has a pear nuance – it is probably that you are detecting.
This confuses me, since in your formula there is “Ethyl Caproate”, not “Allyl Caproate”. So, when you say “CAS 123-68-2″ (Allyl). Do you mean that’s the correct ingredient, and not what is in the original formula (Ethyl)??
Allyl heptanoate (142-19-8)
Ethyl caproate (123-66-0)
Hm, I see, but Ethyl Caproate is Cas 123-66-0 not 123-68-2 http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1004811.html
Oops you’re right – I copied the wrong one down! Fixed.
Christine has sent me p-cresol and I bought isobutyl quinoline with CAS 93-19-16 its available at PSH! And I received Coranol, Creosol, Ambrox Super too, those where my missing ingredients for this formula ..Itās time to blend Clone Aventus !! I have to wait when I am back at work…thatās were I weigh and mix my ingredients on an analytical balance haha. I am at home for my holiday now.
What do you think of ambrox super? Sometimes I open the container just to sniff it for pleasure. It’s so beautiful.
Itās very pleasant indeed! different from ambroxan.
I have Ambrox Super from liaision carbone and Ambroxan crystal from PSH (random supplier) that are big flakes. i personally like the ambroxan from PSH more when smelling need. its sweeter and projects more on its own. Its more like the Ambroxide by Sym
Hi Jamie, can Rose Oxide Racemic be used instead of Rose Oxide Laevo?
Yup – it’s not quite the same but racemic rose oxide is very beautiful and is an okay substitute.
Hi! can I use just Muscone instead of muscone Laevo?
Sure – it’s not as beautiful but it is certainly still great.
Hi Jamie, As I don’t have neobutenone alpha, you’ve told me in an email using spirogalbanone it’s ok.
My question is:
Would be even better using Galbascone IFF which is the same cas number than Neobutenone Alpha? I know you’ve not recommended using Dynascone
Hey Juan, I’m not against dynascone – just very much in favour of neobutenone as it is better. Dynascone is fine, as is galbascone. Dynascone will not have the same diffusion as neobutenone and I can’t say I have tested galbascone for its impact but it should certainly not be a problem to use it. I would say not to increase the dose from the neobutenone though – you may have quite the same penetrating diffuse top but you also don’t want to change the profile too much. These chems are being used for the magic they bring less than… Read more »
please delete this
Thanks Jamie, As a Creed Aventus Lover, (in this moment I have 2 Bottles of the original: batches 2018 and 2019); I can tell you I have made my Aventus with your formula and I confirm it is truly faithful. Despite I’ve made it without some ingredients: Creosol, costus root, tobacarol, pink pepper co2, tropathiane, ethyl caproate and used galbascone instead of neobutenone. Thanks for all your atention. Just bought the Green Irtish Tweed, I’m sure it will be equaly good
I’m really pleased you like it – it’s such a great fragrance and I always get compliments when I wear it. I think these formulas are so helpful for us all as perfumers to understand the magic tricks that go into some of the most successful smells.
Hi Jamie, in a few days I will have the missing materials to mix this formula, I can’t wait! I would like to ask you a question: I see a very high dose of Ambrox, in my little experience I have noticed that quite high doses of Ambrox make the perfume smell almost only of that. What makes the alchemy of the formula work without making it all smell like Ambrox? I have no doubts, your formulas are fantastic and I love them all, but I was wondering what makes such a high percentage of that material in the formula… Read more »
Your English is great Raffaello š The overdose of Ambrox in this fragrance works because ambrox is such a beautiful material that it is tolerable to us to smell it in high doses. This fragrance was the first to use ambrox for its odour and not just its power – previously it was used primarily as Fixateur (404, 505, etc) by Firmenich for its powerful fixative properties (the same as in Ambergris in which it is found naturally). This is similar in a way to what happened with hedione. It’s first use was a mere 1.8% of Eau Sauvage by… Read more »
Fantastic! The comparison you made between Hedione and Ambrox really makes sense, thanks!
One last question: can I use real oakmoss instead of Evernyl? Evernyl has a more acidic and slightly aggressive character than oakmoss and is probably more appropriate to this scent, but I adore real oakmoss … You are the master, you decide! š
Definitely – it won’t be the same of course but you can certainly use the real deal. Having said that, there is an elegance in evernyl that shouldn’t be ignored – just like patchoulol vs patchouli oil – the alcohol isolated is one of the most beautiful ingredients in perfume.
yup absolute – thick green and viscous.
Your formula is helping me a lot in my studies.
I’d like to ask you various questions.
Instead of comments,
if there’s a comfortable way for you,
I will ask questions there from now on.
Please understand my poor English.
can you email me with these questions – you are giving away a fair amount of the formula with these questions in public š [email protected]
I am having a very difficult time finding Ambrox Super. Creating Perfume lists it, but it’s been out of stock for some time. Any other sources that are known? This is the only ingredient I am missing, and it seems like a pretty significant one.
You could use Ambrox DL instead – I am not sure why Ambrox Super is unavailable at this time – annoying!
How would you compare Ambrox DL to Super?