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I am quite a fan of the perfume Dzing! by L’Artisan Perfumer and I recently read that it was to be discontinued (though I am unsure if that is true or not). I also happen to love animalic notes in perfume and classical music so I decided to make a fragrance that was a nod to Dzing! whilst focussing heavily on the animals and named after the famous piece by Berlioz.
NOTE: This is an updated formula (of one I posted some time ago) which is far more complex and interesting than the original. This version incorporates gourmand notes though unlike most saccharine gourmand fragrances, the food elements of this perfume manage to remain relatively dry and well blended.
This is unisex but probably tends more towards the masculine wearer. It is an incredibly unusual and extravagant fragrance. I highly recommend making it—you won’t find any other fragrance formula quite like this on the internet.
For this formula you will need to acquire some good animalic bases and some quite expensive musks, but you will definitely love the end result which is spicy, earthy, animalic, edible, and comforting. It should paint the picture of an old carnival or steam fair at night with all the scents that go with it.
Top Notes
Brazilian Rosewood, Lavender Barrême, Spice Cookies
Cotton Candy, Roasted Nuts, Candy Apples
Heart Notes
Jasmine, Leather, Tobacco
Saffron, Cinnamon, Cloves
Base Notes
Musk, Civet, Castoreum
Ambergris, Costus Root, Sawdust
Guaiac Wood, Hay, Tonka Bean
The Formula
| Quantity | Ingredient | Comments |
| 270 | Galaxolide | Huge musk support for animals |
| 190 | Iso E Super (IFF) | Dry, cedar, sawdust |
| 120 | Hedione (Firmenich) | Luscious, velvety jasmine |
| 100 | Muscenone | Profoundly moving deer musk |
| 45 | Dartanol | Luxury Sandalwood molecule |
| 35 | Cedryl Acetate | Cedar – sawdust |
| 25 | Ethyl Linalool | Enrich and enhance linalool |
| 22 | Lillial | Lily of the valley / White flower |
| 20 | Dihydromyrcenol | Lavender on steroids |
| 15 | Guaiayl Acetate | creamy woody |
| 12 | Musk Tonkin 4768-6/D | Auram base – Tonkin deer |
| 10 | Coumarin Natural | Tonka bean |
| 8 | Lyral | Subst: Hydroxycitronellal or Florol |
| 8 | Eugenol Natural | Cloves, warmth, spice |
| 6 | Linalool ex Bois de Rose | Rosewood |
| 4 | Vanillin ex Clove | Edible spicy vanilla |
| 3 | Fresh Ginger | Clean and sharp |
| 3 | Safraleine | Saffron / Leather |
| 2.5 | Cinnamon Bark Ceylon | Finest cinnamon |
| 2 | Suederal | Naturalistic Suede |
| 2 | Maltol Natural | Candy |
| 10 | Civet Tincture 10% | Animal! |
| 8 | Ambergris WKVY 44903/D 10% | Auram base (ambergris resin) |
| 5 | Hay Absolute 10% | Natural hay – beautiful with coumarin |
| 5 | Castoreum Tincture 10% | Beaver / Leather |
| 0.5 | Iso Butyl Quinoline | Pyralone is best |
| 3 | Tonkin Musk 10236-2/D 10% | Auram base (another Tonkin deer) |
| 2 | Damascone Alpha 10% | Apple |
| 2 | AmberXTreme 10% | Diffusion and amber |
| 1 | Costus Oil 10% | Animalic, dirty |
| 3 | Strawberry Furanone 1% | Cotton candy |
| 1.5 | Birch Tar Rectified 1% | Smoke |
| 1.5 | Nutty Pyrazine 0.01% | Roasted nuts |
| 55 | Triethyl Citrate | Dilutent; Can substitute DEP, DPG, etc. |
| 1000 |
Couldn’t find Tonkin musk at Auram, any suggestions for a similar or less effect? Animalis, muscone or tonquitone? Or maybe Muskrat?
I’d say:
Musk Tonkin 4768-6/D – Replace this with tonquitone or shangralide – both are fine though I tend to prefer tonquitone generally.
Tonkin Musk 10236-2/D 10% – replace this with animalis 10%
Thanks a lot, I will stick to tonquitone and animalis. I am very curious about the scent of this perfume. I’ll leave a comment when its macerated diluted and ready.
Maybe it’ll fit in Victor Wong’s range of Zoologists perfumes haha!
I hope you like it – it is quite novel and modern.
This is really a surprise. I’ve blended this 9 days ago and I took a sniff today after a shake (macerating) and this smells like Sehr al Kalemat by Arabian Oud! Sehr Al Kalemat smells really boozy in the top notes. I have a bottle since 4 year.. it’s very strong. It also has nuances of La Vie e belle ..that’s the gourmand notes of course. Also the leathery notes appear. When I have diluted this blend, I will find out the true beast haha. .can’t wait! I’ve used Animalis and Tonquitone like Jamie suggested instead of Tonkin Musk> impossible… Read more »
Forgot to say that I really like this scent even when it’s not diluted yet!!
I do too – it’s one I often pick up just to sniff the bottle 🙂 I generally dislike using maltol and ethyl maltol so I was rather pleased to find a decent way I could use those within an animal structure rather than just an outright floral gourmand.
Fascinating! I’ve never heard of either of those fragrances! I wonder if the animalis takes it in an oud direction – the Tonkin Musk bases I use are very oily skin musk – whereas animalis is brighter and more woody animal – that might do it.