I happen to be a huge fan of Ylang Ylang and had a great love for the fragrance Sublime by Jean Patou which is built around an Ylang Ylang and Mandarin accord. Rather than analyzing and making a clone, I wanted to come up with my own version so I could be more playful. And so while this formula is called Sublime Ylang and follows the notes and much of the style of the Patou fragrance, this is created without any GCMS analysis of the original.
Twilly is a tuberose bomb which opens with a blast of bright fresh ginger. It features an interesting tuberose based around lactonic notes (rather than medicinal notes) resting in a sultry bed of vanilla and amber. Today we have launched the formula for purchase!
I have always loved that dark, powdery, mossy heart that is so ubiquitous in the fragrances from the 80’s. One to note is “Zino” by Davidoff. This base is inspired by the heart and base of Zino and, to my nose, captures that punch that makes these fragrances so powerful, bold, masculine, and beautiful.
The content of M7 encompasses assorted trees and raw, odorous plants. The composition begins with elegant citrus notes of Italian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin and rosemary. The warm heart contains an excellent replica of one of the most expensive components: Agarwood, followed by vetiver. The perfume closes with a soft ambergris trail and musky notes.
Patou Pour Homme Privé is my signature fragrance, I have spent untold hours wearing this scent and considering its many nuances. I have bought numerous bottles at great cost (of both the eau de toilette and aftershave) and have had more than one GCMS analysis performed. This “clone” formula of Patou Pour Homme Privé is out of this world and, should you wish to play around with the data yourself, it makes a great starting point for experimentation.
Maurice Roucel is the nose behind the skanky and outrageous fragrance Musc Ravageur. In an interview discussing the fragrance, he admitted that despite its name, it ironically had no musk in it. His true musk fragrance was Eau de Cologne for Helmut Lang presented here. This has amazing diffusion and is a graunchy animalic musk bomb; it is unlike anything else you’ll have smelled before (unless you’ve smelled the original).
First off, to be clear, this is not the modern Sauvage from Dior featuring Johnny Depp. This is the original 1966 Edmond Roudnitska masterpiece cologne: the first mass market fragrance to use the glorious power of hedione, newly discovered and captive by Firmenich at the time.
This is the formula for a fragrance I make for my own use. It is full of ingredients that are outright banned from commercial use and quantities of luxury materials that are simply beyond the pocket book of most people. I found this at some point in my travels through various perfumery books or websites and, for the life of me, I cannot remember the source! If someone recognizes this please let me know in the comments so I can post an attribution. I am publishing this formula for Roberto who asked for something Oud related.
There is no one stop shop for all perfumery needs. Over the years I have built relationships and used the services of most suppliers and it seems that a good reference covering all of them doesn’t really exist anywhere on the net. So here is my big list of suppliers. Please feel free to add inline comments or just add your general thoughts at the bottom. I should mention that all of the suppliers on this list ship within (or to) the US and internationally.
What did it smell like in a concentration camp? What was the last thing the victims of the Titanic smelled on the fateful night she sank? Do you want to know what it smells like in outer space or the scent of an Ancient Egyptian temple? Discover the astonishing answers to these questions and more, …
