I just got my order of Jasmin 231 today and I thought I would tell you all about it as it is virtually never written or spoken about online despite the fact that it is was once a very important Jasmine base. NOTE: formula is now included at the bottom of this post. This is pretty much the only information on it online: "In 1933, the Ruzicka [pictured] team [of Firmenich - then Chuit, Naef & Cie] developed a production...
Unlock with Patreon
Thanks for the write up on the Jasmine base. Can’t wait to try it. Will be following your blog and looking forward to your new blends.
No problem đ I plan to update fairly often so keep checking back.
Great post and best wishes on the launch of your blog! I am a vintage perfume collector who has enjoyed quietly reading and learning about perfume ingredients and composition from you and the other mad scientists on the Basenotes DIY thread. I know my vintage Joy parfum smells unlike anything on the market today, but I also like to understand why this is so. Looking forward to hearing about your discoveries and (I hope) experiencing one of your perfumes some day.
I am actually working on a fragrance based on the concept of the original joy – mostly naturals. I will probably make it available at some point – though that’s probably six months away as the high quantity of naturals needs lots of resting. Part of my reason for working on a replacement for Jasmin 231 is to use it in that. I want my base to be primarily naturals whereas I am pretty sure the current version from Firmenich is not.
I doing the formula without pcpa ( i use pure pca) and pimento( i replaced mixed isoeugenyl acetate, methyl diantillis and juniper EO :D). Smell very beautifull yellow narcissus in my garden with fresh laundry/soapy and fruity backnotes đ
You could certainly do it with only PCA but if you get some PCPA I recommend using it as it adds a floral note that PCA doesn’t give you. PCA on its own will of course give you the effect though. In fact sometimes when mixing samples I use PCA as I have it in liquid – and I only switch to PCPA when I am getting close to a final result (it’s in crystal form).
Your pimento replacer sounds good – particularly with juniper added.
Very nice article. I definitely love this website. Thanks!
Hi I want the Oud formula
Hey Jamie, I would also love to see your interpretation of an Oud recreation. Thanks for all the great information.
I will replicate it today…you finally did not use indole?
Hello Jamie, in the article you mentioned how Jasmin 231 contained a lot of indole and civet. I see the civet in the formula (I used natural absolute and synthetic together), but i do not see indole in the formula. Did you omit it intentionally? Thanks
Hey Amine – that was a reference to the version being sold by Firmenich these days which is a pale ghost of the true original. In the not distant future I will be releasing my own constructed version of this jasmin which will utilise natural animalics and materials no longer available in any commercial versions due to cost or the removal of animal products due to public protests from a small group of people not in our industry.
Hi Jamie,
great formula, I love this base and you are right, the pimento leaf adds something very distinctive like PCPA, after all. Just one question, does methyl anthranilate chemically react with Lyral? Can dimethyl anthranilate be used or is it better to leave the formula as it is?