This fragrance has been one of the oldest and most edited fragrances I have made so far. I would go as far to say that it is my favorite creation to date and that there really isn’t anything on the market today that compares. It’s something that performs well in hot and cold weather and though it is strong it is not cloying or aggressive in nature.
To start, it opens with an intensely bright citrus note which features anise, petitgrain, and elemi tinged with spearmint. This unique and beautiful opening blends into a bright woody heart with notes of patchouli, geranium, cedar, tonka bean, and violet leaf. lastly, it settles into a powdery smooth amber base consisting of tobacco, oud, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver and a healthy dose of musks, both animalic (civet) and sensual skin notes (romandolide).
Top Notes
Bergamot, Anise, Petitgrain
Elemi, Spearmint
Heart Notes
Patchouli, Geranium, Cedar
Tonka Bean, Violet Leaf
Base Notes
Oud, Patchouli, Amber
Tobacco, Vetiver, Vanilla
Oakmoss, Civet, Musk, Ambrette
The oakmoss base featured in this formula is from the first post of mine and can be found through the main site or simply through the link within the formula. I do so hope this fragrance brings you all joy and intrigue! It has been 3 years in the making so far and will in all likelihood will be edited further down the road. It is my joy and pleasure to share it with the world and all the fine perfumers on this blog. Happy mixing!
-Frank
[Special thanks goes to Jamie for allowing me the opportunity and the platform to share my work.]
| Quantity | Ingredient | Comments |
| 100 | Iso E Super | |
| 80 | Clearwood | Patchouli EO can be used as well |
| 60 | Cedryl Acetate | |
| 55 | Romandolide | some flexibility here, could use Edenolide or Habanolide |
| 55 | Ambroxan | The best you have |
| 50 | Benzyl Salicylate | |
| 40 | Vetival | This is a wonderful citrus vetiver compound- It’s essential and very hard to replace. |
| 35 | Petitgrain EO | |
| 35 | Linalyl Acetate | |
| 35 | Sylvamber | |
| 35 | Cedar Atlas | |
| 30 | Symroxane | |
| 30 | Timbersilk | |
| 30 | Silvanone Supra | |
| 30 | Hedione | |
| 30 | Cetalox | Ambrox DL is best quality |
| 20 | Dihydromyrcenol | |
| 20 | Dihydro Terpinyl Acetate | |
| 20 | Cedramber | |
| 20 | Bergamot 104 (Givaudan) | Bergamot EO can be used here (BF is best) |
| 20 | 1980s Oakmoss Base | |
| 20 | Oud Synthetic 10760E | Firmenich Oud replacer |
| 20 | Cedroxyde | |
| 20 | Vanillin | |
| 15 | Vetiver (Haiti) | |
| 15 | Elemi EO | |
| 8 | Star Anise EO | Defining character of this fragrance! |
| 8 | Tonka Bean Absolute | Can replace with equal parts coumarin |
| 8 | Spearmint “Nanah” | |
| 7 | Dimethyl Cyclormol | |
| 7 | Okoumal | |
| 7 | Coumarin | |
| 6 | Bicyclononalactone | |
| 5 | Methyl Octine Carbonate 10% | Violettyne is a good substitute |
| 5 | Vetiver (Indonesia) | |
| 4 | Orange Flower Ether | |
| 4 | Geranium Bourbon | |
| 3 | Firascone | |
| 1 | Citrylal E | |
| 7 | Civet Tincture 10% | Beautiful sparkle and clarity along with anise note. |
| 1000 |
Great, thanks for sharing this formula, looking at the ingredients it’s looks very promising, thank you very much Frank and Jamie!!
I need a few ingredients for this formula though, I’ll add the missing ingredients to my wish list.
New formulas appearing almost every day, so it’s wise to wait a little while until ordering I suppose… haha!
haha! Very true, we have teamed up to overload you with formulas! Just kidding, I hope you like it, its very special to me. If you have any questions on replacements let me know and I will try my best to help!
Thank you very much Frank, I certainly appreciate that. It’s a pleasure to know you’ve teamed up with Jamie and I am very excited to blend your formula soon!
I Made some Changes because i dont have everything but i have to say that i really like this scent. Nicely done Frank!
Thanks so much!! Do you mind if I ask what you replaced things with? I may try it out with different things later on. I’m always trying to improve things!
Citral for Citrylal E, Damascone Alpha for Firascone but half the amount, Sweet Orange for Orange Flower Ether, Karanal for Okoumal, Tobacco abs. for Dimethyl Cyclormol but only 10% of the amount, Terpinyl Acetate instead of Dihydro Terpinyl Acetate, Musk Ketone substitute by IFF for Silvanone Supra because the description from perfumers apprentice of silvanone supra gets close to that, and used Ambrox DL insead of Cetalox
Nothing too extreme it seems. The tobacco absolute is an interesting choice for a replacement of dimethyl cyclormol. I bet it works even better honestly. The orange flower ether is a very very dry orange peel note, waxy and not very pleasant on its own so that note will be absent in yours but the orange eo should certainly play nice with everything else. I’m so glad you made it and enjoy it!
I thought when looking at that formula that tobacco abs. could work well in there, thats why i used it. I got some Cedrone S by IFF and think that could be placed in there too. Honestly its the first time i used Oud/ Synthetic Oud, i really like it
That makes me so happy! It’s definitely not an oud fragrance, at least not to me, but it does a great job of incorporating it as a nuance. Not something most oud fragrances do.
So true! Oud is always very in your face. I love M7 for being relatively well balanced as far as oud is concerned and Creed Royal Oud is very wearable too.
M7 is the next one i want to make!
I got the Firmenich Synthetic Oud, Pretty Oud and Oud Maleki, i Like all 3
Pretty Oud is lovely – I think it is an important component of Gucci Absolue Pour Homme.
I love tobacco absolute!