This is the formula for a fragrance I make for my own use. It is full of ingredients that are outright banned from commercial use and quantities of luxury materials that are simply beyond the pocket book of most people. I found this at some point in my travels through various perfumery books or websites and, for the life of me, I cannot remember the source! If someone recognizes this please let me know in the comments so I can post an attribution. I am publishing this formula for Roberto who asked for something Oud related.
I have modified this considerably from the original formula in order to add a rich labdanum note and I have increased the incense in the top with the use of Sacred Frankincense essential oil. I’ve also added leather, tobacco, and many other enhancements. To make this a chypre I use a special combination of animalics in the alcohol I dilute the fragrance with so I am also including the dilution formula at the bottom. It is incredibly skanky because the amount of civet is huge, but this fragrance is powerful enough to tolerate it so I do recommend going with the full dose. Out of interest, this gives you roughly the same quantity of civet as was used by Coty in his original Chypre formula, so the dose is not unheard of.
The end result of this scent actually bears a slight resemblance to Roja Dove’s Amber Aoud which is one of the finer oud based fragrances on the market at the moment.
Top Notes
Frankincense, Saffron, Rose de Mai
Heart Notes
Iris, Turkish Rose, Jasmine Flexile
Neroli, Carnation, Lily of the Valley
Base Notes
Oud, Patchouli, Labdanum
Tobacco, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Orris Root, Vanilla, Birch
Ambrette, Oakmoss, Leather
Ambergris, Civet, Musk
| Quantity | Ingredient | Comments |
| 135 | Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Natural | |
| 87 | Santalol ex Santalum Album | |
| 72 | Orris Butter | Pure. I told you it was expensive! |
| 72 | Black Agar Givco | A beautiful oud impression |
| 72 | Lyral | Banned |
| 58 | Olibanum Resin | |
| 58 | Iralia | |
| 47 | Jasmine Flexile Absolute | |
| 43 | Rose de Mai (French) | Replacer Formula available here |
| 43 | Musk Ambrette | Banned |
| 42 | Lilial | |
| 29 | Neroli Bigarade | |
| 29 | Patchoulol | Patchouli Alcohol |
| 29 | Cyclosia | |
| 28 | Hedione | |
| 20 | Benzyl Benzoate | |
| 15 | Labdanum Resin | |
| 14 | Hedione High Cis | |
| 14 | Benzoin Resin | |
| 11 | Oakmoss Absolute | |
| 7 | Saffranal | Highly restricted |
| 7 | Benzyl Acetate | |
| 7 | Oranger Crystals | |
| 7 | Rose Otto Turkey | |
| 5 | Frankincense EO (Oman) | |
| 5 | Ambrettolide Natural | |
| 4 | Vetiverol ex vetiver Haiti | |
| 3 | Tobacco Blonde Absolute | |
| 3 | Pyralone | |
| 2.4 | Cistus Oil | |
| 2 | Carnation Basenote Formula | |
| 1.2 | Grisambrene | Firmenich labdanum base |
| 1 | Vanilla Absolute Madagascar | |
| 0.5 | Tabanon | |
| 0.4 | Ambrarome | |
| 12 | Tonkin Musk Base 3% | Auram International |
| 3.5 | Birch Tar Rectified 10% | |
| 3 | Orange Blossom Abs 10% | |
| 8 | Ambergris WKVY 3% | Auram International |
| 1000 |
Putting It All Together
This will give you a chypre at 38% concentration. If you have tinctures that are different concentrations, just do a switch out with those and modify the amount of alcohol you use. You can prepare the alcohol in advance of making the formula above by adding the animalics and letting it rest for a while. The civet is extremely strong, but if you have a really good tincture of tonkin deer musk (banned) you will find the balance is quite pleasant – especially with the ambergris to make everything meld. I’d be tempted to wear it as a fragrance on its own though it would probably frighten some people!
Because of the luxury-level of this perfume, I use pure food-grade alcohol (like the French in days gone by) which costs considerably more due to the lack of denaturants unless you are licensed to buy drinking alcohol without tax. This entire fragrance needs a LOT of time to develop.
| Quantity | Ingredient | Comments |
| 380 | Oud Formula From Above | |
| 38 | Civet Tincture 10% | |
| 12 | Tonkin Deer Tincture 10% | Or use a greater amount of 3% |
| 45 | Ambergris Tincture 2% | |
| 525 | Food Grade Ethanol | No denaturant |
| 1000 |
thanks 1000 Jamie! i will study whit much interst this formula! i Hope that you whill publish other about this topic!
Why the sum is 60 in the second part?
A typo 🙂 it adds to 1,000
????
Hi, Jamie. Would replacing Olibanum Resinoid with Olibanum Heart Ventos (which I love) change things a lot? Thank you.
That would be fine I think – I haven’t used the olibanum heart but as long as it is long lasting and derived from the resin I am sure it would be fine. The essential oil which I also use is very bright and top note heavy so it introduces you to the incense early – I’d still include that if possible. I use cistus oil in the same way to carry the labdanum to the top.
I have a beautiful olibanum resinoid that I made just for use in this formula! It’s something I’ve been meaning to do, also whipped up some opoponax resinoid while I was at it 😊.
Hi Jamie, I’ve mixed this one yesterday and I’ve used some nice Deer musk tincture I got from Christine. The main formula doesn’t need to mature on its own? and how long the two mixtures have to rest before mixing them together?
The end concentration is approximately 50/40, are you diluting this one even further to parfum, eau de parfum or toilette?
I mature both mixtures – I have two bottles right now resting unmixed together. I think the ethanol mix was pretty tempered within only a week or two. I’d keep the juice a little longer – maybe a month – to make sure the high amount of orris blends fully. Because off the high amount of civet I suggest at least a month of resting everything combined because initially the animalics will overpower the juice. Once everything settles the civet becomes a growl rather than a scream :). And because of the high dose you get a bit of that… Read more »
Thanks, that’s why I like the movie Perfume: The Story of a Murderer with Dustin Hoffman so much, it’s Enfleurage all the way…except not only with flowers. Because I don’t have all the same ingredients I have used your Jasmine Flexile base formula for this formula, Frankincense Sacra (Hermitage), Orris Butter Artessence (Biolandes) Rose Otto abs Bulgaria (H)Turkish Rose abs (H) Carnation (Anthemis ..local supplier) Ambergris 3 % (H) Vanilla abs replacer by PK perfumes and Neroli e.o. True (H).Next time I will mix your carnation base formula and Rose de Mai replacer formula and use these in this formula.… Read more »
I love that film too! As for the bases, I am going to be selling physically made bases within a month or two and one will be a rose de mai replacer (better than the clone formula for Wardia as this is for a special historic rose de mai base that is more beautiful than Wardia). From the items you have used in substituting I think you’re going to get an amazing result – those are all really good substitutes (the ones I am familiar with at least!)