This is the formula for a fragrance I make for my own use. It is full of ingredients that are outright banned from commercial use and quantities of luxury materials that are simply beyond the pocket book of most people. I found this at some point in my travels through various perfumery books or websites and, for the life of me, I cannot remember the source! If someone recognizes this please let me know in the comments so I can post an attribution. I am publishing this formula for Roberto who asked for something Oud related.
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thanks 1000 Jamie! i will study whit much interst this formula! i Hope that you whill publish other about this topic!
Why the sum is 60 in the second part?
A typo 🙂 it adds to 1,000
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Hi, Jamie. Would replacing Olibanum Resinoid with Olibanum Heart Ventos (which I love) change things a lot? Thank you.
That would be fine I think – I haven’t used the olibanum heart but as long as it is long lasting and derived from the resin I am sure it would be fine. The essential oil which I also use is very bright and top note heavy so it introduces you to the incense early – I’d still include that if possible. I use cistus oil in the same way to carry the labdanum to the top.
I have a beautiful olibanum resinoid that I made just for use in this formula! It’s something I’ve been meaning to do, also whipped up some opoponax resinoid while I was at it 😊.
Hi Jamie, I’ve mixed this one yesterday and I’ve used some nice Deer musk tincture I got from Christine. The main formula doesn’t need to mature on its own? and how long the two mixtures have to rest before mixing them together?
The end concentration is approximately 50/40, are you diluting this one even further to parfum, eau de parfum or toilette?
I mature both mixtures – I have two bottles right now resting unmixed together. I think the ethanol mix was pretty tempered within only a week or two. I’d keep the juice a little longer – maybe a month – to make sure the high amount of orris blends fully. Because off the high amount of civet I suggest at least a month of resting everything combined because initially the animalics will overpower the juice. Once everything settles the civet becomes a growl rather than a scream :). And because of the high dose you get a bit of that… Read more »
Thanks, that’s why I like the movie Perfume: The Story of a Murderer with Dustin Hoffman so much, it’s Enfleurage all the way…except not only with flowers. Because I don’t have all the same ingredients I have used your Jasmine Flexile base formula for this formula, Frankincense Sacra (Hermitage), Orris Butter Artessence (Biolandes) Rose Otto abs Bulgaria (H)Turkish Rose abs (H) Carnation (Anthemis ..local supplier) Ambergris 3 % (H) Vanilla abs replacer by PK perfumes and Neroli e.o. True (H).Next time I will mix your carnation base formula and Rose de Mai replacer formula and use these in this formula.… Read more »
I love that film too! As for the bases, I am going to be selling physically made bases within a month or two and one will be a rose de mai replacer (better than the clone formula for Wardia as this is for a special historic rose de mai base that is more beautiful than Wardia). From the items you have used in substituting I think you’re going to get an amazing result – those are all really good substitutes (the ones I am familiar with at least!)
I blended this one up today and put it away to rest…wow….and I can’t wait to see what some time does with it! On a side note, collecting ingredients for this one has also gotten me a bit obsessed with orris. I thought I knew orris, but I had no idea! Thank you for this one!
Hello Jamie, for May Rose, was is absolute or otto? Thanks
Absolute – French. If you can’t get it you could substitute Bulgarian rose damascena absolute.