Free Formula: Oud Chypre

This is the formula for a fragrance I make for my own use. It is full of ingredients that are outright banned from commercial use and quantities of luxury materials that are simply beyond the pocket book of most people. I found this at some point in my travels through various perfumery books or websites and, for the life of me, I cannot remember the source! If someone recognizes this please let me know in the comments so I can post an attribution. I am publishing this formula for Roberto who asked for something Oud related.

I have modified this considerably from the original formula in order to add a rich labdanum note and I have increased the incense in the top with the use of Sacred Frankincense essential oil. I’ve also added leather, tobacco, and many other enhancements. To make this a chypre I use a special combination of animalics in the alcohol I dilute the fragrance with so I am also including the dilution formula at the bottom. It is incredibly skanky because the amount of civet is huge, but this fragrance is powerful enough to tolerate it so I do recommend going with the full dose. Out of interest, this gives you roughly the same quantity of civet as was used by Coty in his original Chypre formula, so the dose is not unheard of.

The end result of this scent actually bears a slight resemblance to Roja Dove’s Amber Aoud which is one of the finer oud based fragrances on the market at the moment.


Top Notes

Frankincense, Saffron, Rose de Mai

Heart Notes

Iris, Turkish Rose, Jasmine Flexile
Neroli, Carnation, Lily of the Valley

Base Notes

Oud, Patchouli, Labdanum
Tobacco, Sandalwood, Vetiver
Orris Root, Vanilla, Birch
Ambrette, Oakmoss, Leather
Ambergris, Civet, Musk


Quantity Ingredient Comments
135 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Natural
87 Santalol ex Santalum Album
72 Orris Butter Pure. I told you it was expensive!
72 Black Agar Givco A beautiful oud impression
72 Lyral Banned
58 Olibanum Resin
58 Iralia
47 Jasmine Flexile Absolute
43 Rose de Mai (French) Replacer Formula available here
43 Musk Ambrette Banned
42 Lilial
29 Neroli Bigarade
29 Patchoulol Patchouli Alcohol
29 Cyclosia
28 Hedione
20 Benzyl Benzoate
15 Labdanum Resin
14 Hedione High Cis
14 Benzoin Resin
11 Oakmoss Absolute
7 Saffranal Highly restricted
7 Benzyl Acetate
7 Oranger Crystals
7 Rose Otto Turkey
5 Frankincense EO (Oman)
5 Ambrettolide Natural
4 Vetiverol ex vetiver Haiti
3 Tobacco Blonde Absolute
3 Pyralone
2.4 Cistus Oil
2 Carnation Basenote Formula
1.2 Grisambrene Firmenich labdanum base
1 Vanilla Absolute Madagascar
0.5 Tabanon
0.4 Ambrarome
12 Tonkin Musk Base 3% Auram International
3.5 Birch Tar Rectified 10%
3 Orange Blossom Abs 10%
8 Ambergris WKVY 3% Auram International
1000

Putting It All Together

This will give you a chypre at 38% concentration. If you have tinctures that are different concentrations, just do a switch out with those and modify the amount of alcohol you use. You can prepare the alcohol in advance of making the formula above by adding the animalics and letting it rest for a while. The civet is extremely strong, but if you have a really good tincture of tonkin deer musk (banned) you will find the balance is quite pleasant – especially with the ambergris to make everything meld. I’d be tempted to wear it as a fragrance on its own though it would probably frighten some people!

Because of the luxury-level of this perfume, I use pure food-grade alcohol (like the French in days gone by) which costs considerably more due to the lack of denaturants unless you are licensed to buy drinking alcohol without tax. This entire fragrance needs a LOT of time to develop.

Quantity Ingredient Comments
380 Oud Formula From Above
38 Civet Tincture 10%
12 Tonkin Deer Tincture 10% Or use a greater amount of 3%
45 Ambergris Tincture 2%
525 Food Grade Ethanol No denaturant
1000
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Roberto
Roberto
3 months ago

thanks 1000 Jamie! i will study whit much interst this formula! i Hope that you whill publish other about this topic!
Why the sum is 60 in the second part?

Roberto
Roberto
3 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

????

Giomara
Giomara
3 months ago

Hi, Jamie. Would replacing Olibanum Resinoid with Olibanum Heart Ventos (which I love) change things a lot? Thank you.

Frank Saunders
3 months ago

I have a beautiful olibanum resinoid that I made just for use in this formula! It’s something I’ve been meaning to do, also whipped up some opoponax resinoid while I was at it 😊.

Guido
Guido
26 days ago

Hi Jamie, I’ve mixed this one yesterday and I’ve used some nice Deer musk tincture I got from Christine. The main formula doesn’t need to mature on its own? and how long the two mixtures have to rest before mixing them together?
 
The end concentration is approximately 50/40, are you diluting this one even further to parfum, eau de parfum or toilette?

Guido
Guido
25 days ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thanks, that’s why I like the movie Perfume: The Story of a Murderer with Dustin Hoffman so much, it’s Enfleurage all the way…except not only with flowers. Because I don’t have all the same ingredients I have used your Jasmine Flexile base formula for this formula, Frankincense Sacra (Hermitage), Orris Butter Artessence (Biolandes) Rose Otto abs Bulgaria (H)Turkish Rose abs (H) Carnation (Anthemis ..local supplier) Ambergris 3 % (H) Vanilla abs replacer by PK perfumes and Neroli e.o. True (H).Next time I will mix your carnation base formula and Rose de Mai replacer formula and use these in this formula.… Read more »

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