Free Formula: Modern Rose Chypre

This is the first fragrance I ever created! Well, it’s the nth iteration of said fragrance. The very first instance was just three ingredients: patchouli acetate, Dorinia SAE, and hydroxycitronellal in the form of Firmenich’s Cyclosia base. I had mixed the three together in the proportions found in this fragrance and dipped a smelling stick into it. Hours later I walked into the room I had left it in and was met with the most magical and profoundly beautiful scent.

I then went on to make version after version to get it where I really wanted it. No matter how many versions I made, however, the three core materials never changed in type or quantity. This, believe it or not, was five years in the making! It was a favorite of my late mother and family members who received free bottles.

A friend who wears it as her main scent was stopped in the mall by a complete stranger and asked what perfume she was wearing so the questioner could buy a bottle for herself.

This is a simple fragrance with big doses of all my favorite things: patchouly acetate (Perfumer Supply House can supply this), Dorinia SAE (this version has macrocyclic musks and is the most beautiful), Lisylang Heart (fractionated ylang ylang by Robertet), muscenone (the most elegant musk), Cyclosia, and timbersilk (effectively Iso G Super).


Top Notes

Bergamot, Ginger, Pink Pepper

Heart Notes

Red Rose, Ylang Ylang, Lily of the Valley
Iris, Geranium, Frangipani

Base Notes

Patchouli, Musk, Oakmoss
Frankincense, Chocolate, Benzoin


Quantity Ingredient Comments
160 Timbersilk (IFF)
100 Ethylene Brassylate
90 Cyclosia Hydroxycitronellal
80 Lisylang Heart (Robertet) Ylang Ylang, frangipani, monoi notes
80 Hedione High Cis
80 Patchoulyl Acetate Sweet and elegant patchouli
80 Muscenone Woah mama! Big dose!
60 Galaxolide 100%
50 Ethyl Linalool
40 Dorinia SA-E (Firmenich) Red Rose with 3% Beta Damascone
35 Iralia (Firmenich) Methyl ionone blend
30 Lyral Could substitute florol or lilyflore
10 Geranium Bourbon
10 Polvolide Dihydro Nirvanolide
9 Exaltone Nicer than exaltolide but inferior to exaltenone
8 Benzoin 100%
5 Evernyl Oakmoss chemical
4 Ginger CO2
3 Dihydromyrcenol
3 Bulgarian Rose Otto
2 Pink Pepper CO2
1.5 Frankincense Sacred (Oman)
5 Damascenone Beta 10%
0.5 Rose Oxide Laevo 100%
1 Indole 10%
3 Chocovan 1%
50 Triethyl Citrate Diluent
1000
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Frank Saunders
2 months ago

I can’t wait to try this out!!! Thanks Jamie!

Guido
Guido
2 months ago

Perfect, getting excited seeing the ingredients listed!!
Thanks, have to check for the Lisylang.., I think I have the patchoulyl acetate but I am not sure.
Chocovan at 1%? Haven’t used it since I bought a small amount, but it’s strong I guess?
Furthermore I am so glad that you almost use anything at 100%, because I hate dilutions.

Last edited 2 months ago by Guido
Guido
Guido
1 month ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

I’ve mixed this one a few weeks ago, instead of the lisylang I’ve used Ylang III and Patchouly Fraction B, and double the amount of Galaxolide 50%. I’ve used a zip bag for my waste(pipets. weighing boats) mounted on a tripod, and I didn’t throw this bag away…The sent coming from this bag is amazing, I still have this bag and open it now and then to release the nice odor! And I didn’t even try the mixture itself due to the macerating process. This smells like Black Aoud from Montale or other Rose/oud combo’s …The funny thing is that… Read more »

Last edited 1 month ago by Guido
Giomara
Giomara
2 months ago

Thanks, Jamie. I love Patchoulyl acetate with rose. I will definitely try it.

David
David
2 months ago

Planning on making this formula. There doesn’t seem to be any bergamot in the formula but its noted as a top note. Is the bergamot missing ?

David
David
1 month ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thanks Jamie. Could i replace some of the ethyl linalool / DHM bergamot ? What impact would that have ?

Evgenia
Evgenia
1 month ago

The formulation looks very promising!
I can’t get my hands on Lisylang Heart though.. Can I substitute if for some other Ylang? Organic EO by Biolandes, for example?
And as for Iralia – do you think I can play with different proportions of metyl ionone alpha and beta instead?

Florian
Florian
1 month ago
Reply to  Evgenia

I used Ylang Extra instead of the Lisylang Heart but only used half the amount. Worked out good.
I’m sure u can substitude Iralia for other methyl ionones or Isoraldeine

Evgenia
Evgenia
1 month ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

I’ll try going with regular Ylang then! Thank you for so much useful information! I also sent you a message via “contact us” form, hope it reaches you!:)

Peter
Peter
1 month ago

Hello Jamie, I have a question about the Chocovan, I am not sure but I think it’s 50% in TEC? So, this you diluted then to 1%, right? Thanks, Peter

amin4la
amin4la
1 month ago

Hi Jamie, can I replace Rose Oxide Laevo with the Racemic as Laevo isn’t available to purchase in small quantities

amin4la
amin4la
1 month ago

Jamie, I put together this formula with couple of substitutions. I replaced Rose Oxide Laevo with Racemic + Doremox in equal proportions and since I only had 1/3rd of required quantity of Rose Bulgaria Otto I added remaining 2/3rd quantity in form of Rose Absolute Bulgarian, and still can’t believe how extraordinary the result is. Its definitely a winner for me. Kudos Jamie

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