Patron Formula: Homage To Naomi Goodsir Or Du Serail

Bertrand Duchafour is my favourite living perfumer and in particular I love his Or Du Serail for Naomi Goodsir. One weekend I was bored and decided to play around with a bunch of formulas and see if I could make something as sweet and beautiful as the opening of this brilliant scent. I was somewhat successful and while I have not spent any time editing this formula, I thought it might be fun to publish something that is a work-in-progress.
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Konstantin
Konstantin
9 months ago

Hi Jamie, a very interesting start! I didn’t have a bunch of the things you’ve listed but also experimented by adding alternatives. It needs time to settle but the initial is fantastic honey, sweet, fruity perfume which is not the thing you might find in your average store. I added a bit of iso-butylphenylacetate, nectarste, methyl Laitone, cognac absolute, and amber 83. Trying not to make it too sweet but it balances very well with the juicy fruits of the berries, the manzanste, and the raspberry Keton.

amine
amine
9 months ago

Hello,
I used all ingredients but added zenolide, a berry top note musk, some rum co2, beeswax absolute, tobacco blond absolute, used less oakwood, more mate abs, some gamma octalactone, half vanillin half vanilla absolute, and some cedarwood virginia. Interesting, thanks

Guido
Guido
9 months ago

Hi Jamie, Can’t wait to mix this one! I have a few ingredients that I have to buy. I am going to receive Mango Ginger from Hermitage oils and I am applying this one to the mix, according to Hermitage oils: The mouth-watering, piquant top has delicious notes of pine resin, camphor, vanilla, and shimmering ginger. This develops into a fully resinous, coniferous heart cradled by the juicy, macerated flesh of champagne mangoes and pleasantly sweet brown sugar. The dry down reveals tropical fruits encased in amber; deep, dark, delicious, fibrous. One may also detect notes of warm opoponax and… Read more »

amin4la
amin4la
9 months ago

Hi Jamie, I’m a sucker for honey based fragrances and I really love Honey Signature. Any substitution for Oakwood CO2? I read that material contains high water content (61-69%)!

amin4la
amin4la
7 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thank you for timely response and apologies for such a long time I took to ask a follow-up question. Could you kindly make suggestions for ‘boozy type chemical’ and a suitable woody note to go along with it?

amin4la
amin4la
6 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Will Oakwood Absolute and a touch of Rum ether work?

vetivertabacco
vetivertabacco
8 months ago

Hi Jimie, 1.      Is there any difference between Ambrox DL by Firmenich, Cetalox by Firmenich and Ambroxan? Isn’t Ambrox Super just 2 ingredients: Cetalox and Amborxan mixed together? What can I use instead of Ambrox Super? 2.      What can I use instead of Labdanum Resin 50%? Could It be Labdanum Clear Absolute – Spain? 3.      What type of Wild Orange can I use? Can I use something instead of it – Bitter Orange maybe? 4.      What Mango Flavor do you recommend, where from? 5.      Can I use Dextramber instead of Norlimbanol Dextro? 6.      I have found Honey Signature by Firmenich at PellWall. It is kind expensive…is… Read more »

vetivertabacco
vetivertabacco
8 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Thanks for reply! It’s helpful for me. Are you going to share one time what improvements did you make? I’m really curious about it. 😀

Elizabeth
Elizabeth
7 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

Piggybacking off the other commenter: would the Robertet Mate NHS be an adequate replacement for mate EO or abs?

Also, interested in what other materials, even more expensive, could replace Honey Sig. I do plan to use that there and have a relative boatload of it (and fully adore it), but also always on the lookout for more honey-influence materials.

Thank you!

Florian
Florian
7 months ago

Just got Honey Signature and Oakwood CO2 from PSH.
Both things are extremely nice.
Im looking forward in trying this out

Abdullay
Abdullay
2 months ago

Hi , Jamie ,
I like this formula …. but i have doubt in the 200 DPG …. does it mean it’s part of the formula?

In other words.. if i want to produce the formula, do i have to consider the DPG as part of the formula… then i calculate the alcohol separately ? Or it would be continuation of alcohol addition?

janosch
janosch
2 months ago

wow i justed mixed it i only dont have Oakwood CO2 forget order but i love it as it its a beautyfull blend where you dont pic any one note standing out but makes me smell it again and again love it 🙂 thx

janosch
janosch
2 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

love your work jamie and cant wait for the next Patreon formular 😉 heheh 😀 on fun fact i didnt have normal Hedinone so i used insted hedione HC :O but its still amazing deep sweet fruity warm 🙂 and that with no maturation at all what maturation time would you recomand?

janosch
janosch
2 months ago
Reply to  Jamie Frater

a new formular HURRAYYYYY 🙂 at what temp you maturate? i use this set to 37 °C https://brodandtaylor.eu/en/product/brod-taylor-folding-proofer-slow-cooker-fp-205/ read someware that it then goes fast 🙂

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