Bertrand Duchafour is my favourite living perfumer and in particular I love his Or Du Serail for Naomi Goodsir. One weekend I was bored and decided to play around with a bunch of formulas and see if I could make something as sweet and beautiful as the opening of this brilliant scent. I was somewhat successful and while I have not spent any time editing this formula, I thought it might be fun to publish something that is a work-in-progress.
So here I am presenting my Homage to this sweet honeyed scent in the hopes that you will all have a really good play with it and improve upon it. Use the comments to tell us what changes you make to perfect this skeleton formula. There are some very unconventional additions here (mango flavour for example) but hey . . . the mango flavour I had smelled nicer than the fragrance mangos I had on hand so why not?
Substitute, remove, add, go crazy! This is such a fun and luscious fragrance you should be able to spend weeks changing it up to get something you really like. I should add however, as is it is still pretty damned nice and wearable if you can tolerate the sweetness. A guaranteed hit with the under 30s in your life.
Honey, Rum, Green Apple
Peach, Mango, Red Berries
Ylang Ylang, Clary Sage, Jasmine
Rose, Geranium, Iris
Musk, Vanilla, Tobacco
Labdanum, Benzoin, Amber
Oak, Sandalwood, Cedarwood
|50||Iso E Super|
|25||Iralia||Alpha methyl ionone|
|40||Benzoin Resin 50%|
|18||Oakwood CO2||Oak & Rum Notes|
|10||Ylang Ylang Extra|
|20||Labdanum Resin 50%|
|5||Ionone Beta Natural|
|15||Mango Flavour 10%|
|12||Nonalactone Gamma 10%|
|10||Honey Signature 10%||Firmenich – amazing!|
|4||Scentolide 10%||Subst: Ambrettolide|
|3||Damascenone Beta 10%|
|2||Mate EO 10%|
|200||DPG||Diluent of your choice|