The first fragrance of the house of Dana was Tabu, created by Jean Carles in 1932. Jean Carles was well known for his wonderful creations made of unusual materials. Before creating Tabu, he was instructed to make a fragrance for a whore (‘un parfum de puta’). Thus, Tabu was created, sensual and shocking.
Its luscious oriental floral composition starts with fresh citrus and spicy notes. The spices in the heart accentuate the beauty of exuberant flowers: jasmine, orange flower, rose and ylang-ylang. Warm oriental base includes amber, resins, civet and precious woods – sandal and patchouli. This is truly one of the most distinctive fragrances of all time. At the time of its creation it was most suited to women; but thanks to the spiced profile this is now a perfect unisex scent that leans more to the masculine side.
This formula is the original 1932 release, so it includes a large number of bases as was the style and habit of Jean Carles. Links to replacement formulas or sources for the bases are provided for all materials. This formula is not IFRA compliant but could be made to be so with ease. This is built from inside knowledge of the original formula as well as GCMS analyses of well-preserved vintage bottles of the perfume.
If you wish to purchase the full formula to our replica of this distinctive and risqué fragrance, you may do so here:
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Sale!
Another classic that I am going to put on my wish list for this year!
Such a great way to practice perfumery!
This is one of my all time favourites. I’ve loved it since I was a little boy and smelt it on my mother who wore it to Midnight Mass. Thus started my love affair with patchouli.
This is quite something – TABU itself is fantastic and this is quite amazing – mixed it up a few days ago, waiting a few more days before making a small eat de Parfum portion. Beautiful vintage feel. Why don’t they make them like that any more?!
Don’t get me started! 🙂
Hello, just got this. I want to ask about ingredient 6. Is it the same as lemongrass (cymbopogon citratus/ flexuosus)?
Also for orange flower base, the link has an error so I cannot access it. Was the original pure orange blossom, or was it also a base?
Thanks Jamie, this one needs patience and concentration
same for rose d’orient . says page doesn’t exist
Weird! Here’s the Orange Blossom: https://fraterperfumes.com/orange-blossom-base/
And here’s the Rose D’Orient: https://fraterperfumes.com/rose-dorient-base/
The original used a base – not pure absolute. Jean Carles used lots of bases through all his fragrances. His Miss Dior is insane!
Oh the bases aren’t included with the purchase. Alright, so I need to get patreon i guess. Thanks for the response
Got patreon, tried multiple times and the base formulas won’t open.
Can you try again? I just ran a health check on the patreon connection and it says it is okay at the moment.
I tried so many times. It says do you allow Frater to see your public profile and email address? I click allow, and then it returns to same page.
I tried on firefox, edge, and on my phone. Nothing works. There has to be a problem. I had patreon last year and got some formulas from this site, so it has worked before, but now it just won’t.
okay I’ll email you the formulas directly if that works.
Hello, just checked and all is working now finally. Time to mix. Thanks for all
Hello Jamie, i wrote you an e-mail a few days ago. Did it get through or did i use a wrong e-mail adress?
Hmm I didn’t see one – can you resend? [email protected] or [email protected]
I’ve send it to the second address now. The first time I used the first address
Hello, is it worth replacing benzyl acetate by its natural version in the jasmin231? Or does the synthetic one work better? I have both, i try to go as natural as possible because natural isolates do smell better in general. Thanks
Synthetic is fine to replace natural in this.
Hey Jamie,
Just curious: I assume this formula contains only ‘classic’ ingredients no captives?
And does it contain musk xylol?
Hi Jamie, are there any alternatives for ingredients 24+25 ? I have over 700 ingredients but not these….
Hey – drop me an email and I’ll respond with more details. [email protected]
I will do that
By mistake I’ve placed this comment in the wrong section it must be for: Clone Formula: Patou Pour Homme Privé
Should this macerate for a month or longer? Because I find the opening a little weird at first after mixing.
What I smell a day after on a strip smells far better.
But one shouldn’t judge a book by its cover.
One month should be fine – what are you finding weird?
Maybe weird is not the right word, I got the same impression with L’Origan by Coty but not as strong.. maybe the coriander with the other herbs.. I don’t know?
It certainly has that vintage vibe
But most fragrances need time to macerate of course to lose those sharp edges, and softening things up.
Almost a week after mixing and it smells very nice, much better ..what a difference compared with day one 😃.
Haha IKR? I cannot stress enough the importance of long waiting with these old formulas. Jean Carles must have had the patience of a saint!