Maurice Roucel is the nose behind the skanky and outrageous fragrance Musc Ravageur. In an interview discussing the fragrance, he admitted that despite its name, it ironically had no musk in it. His true musk fragrance was Eau de Cologne for Helmut Lang presented here. This has amazing diffusion and is a graunchy animalic musk bomb; it is unlike anything else you'll have smelled before (unless you've smelled the original).
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This is definitely an interesting but enjoyable smell. I am wearing it now and the diffusion is very impressive. Its not cloying or saturating, just light and pleasant with a bright, woody, buttery sandalwood note really shining on my skin right now. I can see this definitely becoming something I would regularly wear year round. I’ve never smelled the original but I am really liking this clone a lot. Thanks for sharing Jamie!
This is one I wear a lot. I dab it on pure without diluting it and it still gets good diffusion. The cyclomethylene citronellol really contributes a magical quality to it.
Made this one 2 days ago and really enjoying it too.
Switched the Aurelione and cyclomethylene citronellol with some other Ingredients because i havnt got them yet and its really gorgeous.
Its an easy to wear fragrance
What did you use to replace the cyclomethylene citronellol with? I’d be curious how your substitution went with that as I particularly love that note in the fragrance.
I used 50 lyral and 50 hydroxycitronellal for that.
And for Aurelione i used L-muscone and velvione
Its a soapy fragrance Like that, really creamy with good Diffusion
Will compare it in the future with the real formula after i got the ingredients
EDIT: So my Version is probably more on the White Flower/ Lily of the Valley Kind of smell
Nice! I love lyral and hydroxycitronellal together. It sounds like you definitely have a good end result – my version is also definitely soapy and creamy 🙂
Just to double check here, is the benzoin at 100% for this formula? Just because most of your formulas use 50% and it’s what mine comes diluted to. Thanks for all the new content, I’ve really enjoyed it!
I made this formula up like its stated in the Formula.
I have benzoin at 50% too and just doubled the amount.
Worked out great like that
Hey John – sometimes I use a diluted benzoin and sometimes I use pure. In the case of this formula I used pure – so just do a double up of your 50% (like Florian did).
Perfect, thanks for the response guys!
I’ve made a twist of this formula based on what ingredients I have, having never smelled the fragrance itself. However, I found some notes on this:
https://www.cafleurebon.com/cafleurebon-modern-masterpieces-helmut-lang-velviona-2001-velvione-and-the-first-molecular-perfume/
According to the article, there is a large amount of velvione in this fragrance.
Cheers!
Velviona is a different fragrance to the Eau de Cologne on this page . . . you are aware of that right? 🙂
Yes! I am aware of the article being about velviona, but here is the quote I sourced from:
Oh I missed that part of the article! Thanks for clarifying!
I’d like to mention that the newly available Dreamwood base by Firmenich would make a beautiful substitute for the Mysore Wood in this formula. In fact I’d probably say it would be an improvement.
interessiting i didnt have Mysore wood so i used Sandelwood white EO very expensive but dont know if that was a good substitute?:) i also have Dreamwood will try this in the next try 🙂
Presuming that’s an EO extracted from Santalum album (which it does appear to be from what I can tell) – it would be absolutely fine as a replacer 🙂
thx! love the scent so far 🙂 but is so hart to get 🙁 Cyclomethylene Citronellol in Germany but i will get it somehow 😀
Let us know how it goes! It’s a great formula.
Hi Jamie what do you think of adding Mandarin note or a touch of Fruit to the formula?
My instinct says no as this is so musky but then I am reminded of DK Donna Karan from 1994 which had a million notes and was so beautifully balanced that the fruit just adds the most magnifcent complexity. I’d say give it a shot! Here’s the DK: https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Donna-Karan/DK-501.html
Definitely gonna give it a shot and I will try to add Dreamwood as well. Is the original perfume available now? and is this formula similar to the original one?
this is my interpretation and improvement formula. The original perfume is still definitely available to buy – I bought it online.
Hi, Jamie….. what is exactly lavender barreme? is it normal lavender E.O? or absolute? iam trying to get it from Eden , but there are many options….
It’s a really high quality lavender essential oil. You could substitute your very finest sweetest lavender.