First off, to be clear, this is not the modern Sauvage from Dior featuring Johnny Depp. This is the original 1966 Edmond Roudnitska masterpiece cologne: the first mass market fragrance to use the glorious power of hedione, newly discovered and captive by Firmenich at the time.
If you wish to purchase the full formula of this most refined and perfect historic cologne, you may do so here:
Oh this is so cool!
Really lucky that i purchased Musk Ambrette Last Time at PSH
It’s definitely better with musk ambrette! Brut had 13% musk ambrette too – it’s such a perfect mens’ musk.
I have it in the L’origan formula and it works really well!
The only thing i worry about with this formula here is the cuminic aldehyde.
I’ve read that it is really unstable. Paul Kiler said that he stores it under Argon but i cant do this. Is there a alternative or should i get a small amount for this formula? I think that this is maybe the ”secret” of the formula
It definitely adds to the animal filth of the original (something lacking in the new). Don’t be too worried about storage – buy a small amount and keep it in the fridge.
Yay! I’m super excited to mix this one up tonight! Thanks Jamie! You rock! Totally mixing it up with Musk Ambrette first!
Musk ambrette is the bees knees 🙂
This is really great, thanks a lot! and I happen to have the PK perfect pineapple! How much PK perfect pineapple would you suggest I should add to this formula and how much Civet tincture ?
You’ll have to judge by nose as I haven’t compared Paul’s pineapple to my own in terms of power. I’d probably start around the 0.5% of a a 10% dilution and work up.
Thanks, I am sure that’ll be a good starting point to begin with.
Coriander leaf oil or coriander seed oilÂż? i guess you mean leaf oil?
I thought normal coriander Oil is everytime the Oil of the seeds.
When i See the leaf Oil it is normally stated as cilantro but i dont know if its here like that
Seed. I’ll update it. The seed oil is very versatile. The leaf less so. Basil is the main herb note in this scent. You’ll fall in love with coriander seed if you haven’t used it before.
It’s a really a beautiful idea! It would be great to retrace the fundamental steps of perfumery. I think about Chrome of Azaro, Drakkar Noir, Poison etc ….. what do you think?
Definitely – the historic roots of perfumery is so fascinating!
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I made it without the cumin ald. Very very nice! Much more pungent and herbal than the E.S.sample I have, but I guess it will have to mature. Any yes, coriander seed really makes wonders, sort of bridges the herbal and woody components.
Yeah the one they sell now is much softer and toned down. A real shame – it was a masterpiece.
Hey everyone, I gave this formula a couple of shots and wanted to provide my notes for what I did, hope it helps! (Jamie let me know if this is too revealing of the formula and I can cut this down a bit) I initially expressed concerns to Jamie about sensitization due to the amount of bergamot oil used, as I didn’t want to give my friends something that would cause them to get rashes in the summertime. During my second attempt I said “screw it” and just used full bergamot oil. But it in the first, I created my… Read more »
Great choices and sounds like a lot of fun. Muscenone (even at 6% is a massive replacer for musk ambrette or even musk ketone). The nitro musks sit much more passively in a formula and muscenone causes an intense and powerful diffusion which you would get from using a similar quantity of pure deer musk resin! For that reason companies like Firmenich tend to replace musk ambrette with ethylene brassylate in their re-creations of historic bases (they only sell one or two still). EB is a horrid replacer for musk ambrette as it lacks all of the extra beauty of… Read more »
I bought the formula a few days ago, mostly out of curiosity. But now I’m temptated putting it together. Please allow me 3 questions about 3 materials: Lavender EO (Lavandula angustifola): you mentioned in the formula a variety that I wouldn’t have associated with supreme quality. I’ve been interested in natural essential oils and absolutes for over 35 years and I’m aware of the variability of lavender oils. Actually, lavender oil is a world on its own and to define a ‘good’ quality (of lavender oil) is probably also a matter of taste in this case. To make it short:… Read more »
1. Sweet – less camphoraceous than usual.
2. The original would have used Spanish but you could substitute the finer “ex verbenon” if you prefer it.
3. You’ll get a slightly more noticeable presence from the HCA vs ACA. It is also more floral and elegant. You could definitely substitute.
Thank you so much for your reply, Jamie! That’s indeed very helpful for me. If I’m going to realise the formula, I definetely will make a few subtle modifications (replacing some ingredients), because I’m fascinated about the idea of getting the scent a bit more elegant – if possible (e.g. carnation abs. for eugenol – I’m not afraid of flowers). I know the ‘old’ scent from the early 1990s. Nowadays ES has moved quite a bit away from its earlier (genuine lemon) freshness and depth. Even in case I didn’t mix it up at all, I don’t regret buying your… Read more »
Ah there will definitely be a Chanel No 19 formula to come. It is VERY complex so it is taking me much time to finalise and I am in the process of transitioning to Windows from the Apple world so that is delaying me a touch. Stay tuned – No 19 has some fascinating little secrets no one knows that will be revealed in my formula 🙂
Hello everyone, after a month of maceration I diluted it to 25% in food grade alcohol. Today, after a month of maturation, I tried it, on the skin and on the blotter. The opening is impressive, magnificent, I used the best bergamot and the best lemon I have found. The problem is that after about an hour, when the evaporation of the citrus begins to fade, an indole note stands out for quite some time (this happens mostly – or exclusively – when applied to the skin. This indole note that stands out lasting until basenotes with woodiness and musks… Read more »