First off, to be clear, this is not the modern Sauvage from Dior featuring Johnny Depp. This is the original 1966 Edmond Roudnitska masterpiece cologne: the first mass market fragrance to use the glorious power of hedione, newly discovered and captive by Firmenich at the time.
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Oh this is so cool!
Really lucky that i purchased Musk Ambrette Last Time at PSH
It’s definitely better with musk ambrette! Brut had 13% musk ambrette too – it’s such a perfect mens’ musk.
I have it in the L’origan formula and it works really well!
The only thing i worry about with this formula here is the cuminic aldehyde.
I’ve read that it is really unstable. Paul Kiler said that he stores it under Argon but i cant do this. Is there a alternative or should i get a small amount for this formula? I think that this is maybe the ”secret” of the formula
It definitely adds to the animal filth of the original (something lacking in the new). Don’t be too worried about storage – buy a small amount and keep it in the fridge.
Yay! I’m super excited to mix this one up tonight! Thanks Jamie! You rock! Totally mixing it up with Musk Ambrette first!
Musk ambrette is the bees knees 🙂
This is really great, thanks a lot! and I happen to have the PK perfect pineapple! How much PK perfect pineapple would you suggest I should add to this formula and how much Civet tincture ?
You’ll have to judge by nose as I haven’t compared Paul’s pineapple to my own in terms of power. I’d probably start around the 0.5% of a a 10% dilution and work up.
Thanks, I am sure that’ll be a good starting point to begin with.
Coriander leaf oil or coriander seed oil¿? i guess you mean leaf oil?
I thought normal coriander Oil is everytime the Oil of the seeds.
When i See the leaf Oil it is normally stated as cilantro but i dont know if its here like that
Seed. I’ll update it. The seed oil is very versatile. The leaf less so. Basil is the main herb note in this scent. You’ll fall in love with coriander seed if you haven’t used it before.
It’s a really a beautiful idea! It would be great to retrace the fundamental steps of perfumery. I think about Chrome of Azaro, Drakkar Noir, Poison etc ….. what do you think?
Definitely – the historic roots of perfumery is so fascinating!
👍
I made it without the cumin ald. Very very nice! Much more pungent and herbal than the E.S.sample I have, but I guess it will have to mature. Any yes, coriander seed really makes wonders, sort of bridges the herbal and woody components.
Yeah the one they sell now is much softer and toned down. A real shame – it was a masterpiece.
Hey everyone, I gave this formula a couple of shots and wanted to provide my notes for what I did, hope it helps! (Jamie let me know if this is too revealing of the formula and I can cut this down a bit) I initially expressed concerns to Jamie about sensitization due to the amount of bergamot oil used, as I didn’t want to give my friends something that would cause them to get rashes in the summertime. During my second attempt I said “screw it” and just used full bergamot oil. But it in the first, I created my… Read more »
Great choices and sounds like a lot of fun. Muscenone (even at 6% is a massive replacer for musk ambrette or even musk ketone). The nitro musks sit much more passively in a formula and muscenone causes an intense and powerful diffusion which you would get from using a similar quantity of pure deer musk resin! For that reason companies like Firmenich tend to replace musk ambrette with ethylene brassylate in their re-creations of historic bases (they only sell one or two still). EB is a horrid replacer for musk ambrette as it lacks all of the extra beauty of… Read more »