I happen to be a huge fan of Ylang Ylang and had a great love for the fragrance Sublime by Jean Patou which is built around an Ylang Ylang and Mandarin accord. Rather than analyzing and making a clone, I wanted to come up with my own version so I could be more playful. And so while this formula is called Sublime Ylang and follows the notes and much of the style of the Patou fragrance, this is created without any GCMS analysis of the original.
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The content of M7 encompasses assorted trees and raw, odorous plants. The composition begins with elegant citrus notes of Italian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin and rosemary. The warm heart contains an excellent replica of one of the most expensive components: Agarwood, followed by vetiver. The perfume closes with a soft ambergris trail and musky notes.
Patou Pour Homme Privé is my signature fragrance, I have spent untold hours wearing this scent and considering its many nuances. I have bought numerous bottles at great cost (of both the eau de toilette and aftershave) and have had more than one GCMS analysis performed. This “clone” formula of Patou Pour Homme Privé is out of this world and, should you wish to play around with the data yourself, it makes a great starting point for experimentation.
Maurice Roucel is the nose behind the skanky and outrageous fragrance Musc Ravageur. In an interview discussing the fragrance, he admitted that despite its name, it ironically had no musk in it. His true musk fragrance was Eau de Cologne for Helmut Lang presented here. This has amazing diffusion and is a graunchy animalic musk bomb; it is unlike anything else you’ll have smelled before (unless you’ve smelled the original).
This is the formula for a fragrance I make for my own use. It is full of ingredients that are outright banned from commercial use and quantities of luxury materials that are simply beyond the pocket book of most people. I found this at some point in my travels through various perfumery books or websites and, for the life of me, I cannot remember the source! If someone recognizes this please let me know in the comments so I can post an attribution. I am publishing this formula for Roberto who asked for something Oud related.
This formula is now available only as a one-off purchase. If you previously had access via Patreon, feel free to email me and I will supply you with a copy for free. Green Irish Tweed is one of the most brilliantly constructed green fougere type fragrances ever created. In this, my version, I am including …
“Every city, let me teach you, has its own smell.” So said E. M. Forster in A Room With A View. As a hobbyist perfumer I am fascinated by smell—particularly the smells of history. It was a precious and rare vial of the 1905 perfume, L’Origan, that decided me on the hobby. I openened the …
Neroli Portofino is a very popular modern take on the classic cologne. Neroli is used in a vast number of men’s fragrances as a basic note, and in women’s fragrances often as an accent. In traces or overdose it is exceedingly beautiful. This formula takes the Tom Ford iteration of a cologne and ramps it …