Rose D’Orient (Rose Otto) Base

Rose D’Orient (Oriental Rose) bases were early attempts to replicate the essential oils of rose (typically Bulgarian – or Rose Damascena). Two in particular were very popular with one featuring as the main rose in Coty’s La Rose Jacqueminot and later L’Origan.

Jasminum Flexile Base

Jasminum Flexile (also known as Taruni) is native to India. It is a rare and quite expensive variant of jasmine for perfumery but perhaps the best of all the jasmines—surpassing even Sambac.

Appell Rose Base

Louis Appell has some amazing formulae and bases in his book The Formulation and Preparation of Cosmetics Fragrances and Flavors and one in particular is a real favorite of mine. He calls it “Rose W” and has this to say about rose bases in general: “Absolutes of rose [around $4,000 per kg] and jasmine are …

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Orange Blossom Base

Orange blossom is one of the oldest and most important perfumery notes. It was central to the first colognes in fact. The price of orange blossom (and the closely related neroli) is very high so replacements of a high calibre are needed. This accord is based on a formula by Poucher with a minor tweak …

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Parma Violet Base

Parma violets have existed since the 16th century when Count Pierre Savorgnan de Brazza cross-bred two types of viola strains. Of the two types of parma violet he created, only one remains and it is that one which gives us the most beautiful of all violet scents.

Sambac Jasmine Base

This is a modern sambac jasmine base. It is based in part on a headspace analysis of Jasmine Sambac (from the Philippines) but it also includes a pretty huge dose of Hedione High Cis (Methyl dihydrojasmonate). The scent is quite soft as far as jasmine accords go – with the benzyl acetate (main component of …

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White Jasmin Base

A non-discoloring classic Jasmine base. Quantity Comments 300 Benzyl Acetate Basic jasmine chemical 200 Lyral Like hydroxycitronellal but more tenacious 100 Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Important rose chemical 100 Cinnamic Alcohol Soft sweet cinnamon odor 100 Benzyl Salicylate UV protecting and oily/balsamic 50 Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Oily jasmine note 50 Ylang Ylang Naturalness and floralcy 40 …

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