Jamie Frater

Jamie Frater

Free Formula: Sublime Ylang Perfume

I happen to be a huge fan of Ylang Ylang and had a great love for the fragrance Sublime by Jean Patou which is built around an Ylang Ylang and Mandarin accord. Rather than analyzing and making a clone, I wanted to come up with my own version so I could be more playful. And so while this formula is called Sublime Ylang and follows the notes and much of the style of the Patou fragrance, this is created without any GCMS analysis of the original.

Clone Formula: Patou Pour Homme Privé

Patou Pour Homme Privé is my signature fragrance, I have spent untold hours wearing this scent and considering its many nuances. I have bought numerous bottles at great cost (of both the eau de toilette and aftershave) and have had more than one GCMS analysis performed. This “clone” formula of Patou Pour Homme Privé is out of this world and, should you wish to play around with the data yourself, it makes a great starting point for experimentation.

Clone Formula: Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne

Maurice Roucel is the nose behind the skanky and outrageous fragrance Musc Ravageur. In an interview discussing the fragrance, he admitted that despite its name, it ironically had no musk in it. His true musk fragrance was Eau de Cologne for Helmut Lang presented here. This has amazing diffusion and is a graunchy animalic musk bomb; it is unlike anything else you’ll have smelled before (unless you’ve smelled the original).

Patron Formula: Oud Chypre

This is the formula for a fragrance I make for my own use. It is full of ingredients that are outright banned from commercial use and quantities of luxury materials that are simply beyond the pocket book of most people. I found this at some point in my travels through various perfumery books or websites and, for the life of me, I cannot remember the source! If someone recognizes this please let me know in the comments so I can post an attribution. I am publishing this formula for Roberto who asked for something Oud related.

Perfumery Ingredient Suppliers—The Essential Guide

There is no one stop shop for all perfumery needs. Over the years I have built relationships and used the services of most suppliers and it seems that a good reference covering all of them doesn’t really exist anywhere on the net. So here is my big list of suppliers. Please feel free to add inline comments or just add your general thoughts at the bottom. I should mention that all of the suppliers on this list ship within (or to) the US and internationally.

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