One of the first fragrances I purchased for myself as a teenager was the original Egoiste by Chanel. All these years later I am never without a bottle and have since acquired the near-mythical Égoïste Cologne Concentrée and a much loved bottle of Bois Noir, the very short lived fragrance that was the precursor to the final Egoiste.
Chanel’s Égoïste Cologne Concentrée is now virtually impossible to buy brand new and the remaining bottles on eBay are fast vanishing. So, with a lot of diligence and computer analyses, I came up with my own formula for this masterful cologne.
To purchase the entire formula for Chanel’s Égoïste Cologne Concentrée, go here:
This is incredible! Well done!
Hi Jamie. For the labdanum complex I have cistus absolute, can I use that and how much do you suggest I should use?
Cistus absolute is just another name for labdanum isn’t it? Same amounts if so. Cistus oil is different in that it is light in color, thin in texture, and has a penetrating top note that is perceived sooner in the dry down. Grisambrene, the Firmenich speciality has a mix of cistus, labdanum resin, etc. to give a complex and complete top to bottom dry down. It’s a little-known product that is worth checking out if you can.
Thanks for the explanation, I should have been a little clearer: Instead of Cistus oil I have Cistus absolute further more I have the Grisambrene, Ambrarome and the Labdanum abs.
I find some of the absolutes really a pain to work with, they are very sticky.
Yeah they are definitely annoying – I use ambrarome diluted – but mostly due to the power of it.
Blended this one 3 weeks ago, and now and then I give it a shake for the macerating process. I almost can’t wait to dilute this one. I went with a little dap on my wrist to see how it progresses, O boy ! another trip down to memory lane: This is the scent me and my father were hooked on in the beginning of the 90s…, and that means the ordinary version, let alone this concentrée version…!
How long do you think this one has to macerate?
The regular one was one of the first perfumes I bought myself in the ’90s when I became a teenager. I own a bunch of bottles and versions, including Bois Noir the precursor to it. As for macerating – I’d say rest it a month and then dilute and just play it by nose 🙂 I keep mine in the fridge because it is just for me and I decant small amounts into little sprays to keep around the place.
What do you think about magnetic stirrer for macerating faster?
I have one but I don’t really use it much. The last time I used it was with an ambergris tincture – just to help get things started.
dear jamie, is this formula the same like the formula to „a nod to égoïste“ or is this formula called „clone formula: égoïste concentrée“ something different to the „nod to égoisté“ ?
They are the same thing. It is based on a GCMS of Egoiste and information I have from the historic original formula to fill out such things as naturals and bases.
There is nothing like a refined Chanel – this formula is phenomenal. Something in it is a little sensitizing to my skin after a hot shower so I need to work on it but the scent is phenomenal. I broke a small glass vial in the bathroom floor a few weeks back – for several days the bathroom was phenomenally good-smelling 🙂
Do you have any other plans for other Chanel fragrances? – Some of the Les Exclusifs collection perhaps?
I have a couple of favorites from the exclusives range that I’d consider doing for sure – Coromandel and Sycomore for example – the two I wear most often. I’d like to look at some of the exclusive Dior’s too. Balade Sauvage is profoundly beautiful – one of the greatest men’s fragrances no one has heard of. Certainly the best fig note out there.
Hi Jamie,
these days I have blended all the components, the perfume is already fantastic as it is, but I only miss Prunella which I cannot find from my usual suppliers here in Europe. What can I replace it with? I thought about benzyl butyrate, what do you think?
https://liaison-carbone.com/ Carries Prunella. Its a Shop based in Berlin Germany so shipping within europe should be fast
Hi Florian, thank you!
You may not believe it but I just placed Prunella’s order on Liaison Carbone, incredible! I didn’t know this provider but I did some web research and it turned out!
I have already mixed all the ingredients and even without Prunella the perfume is really fantastic, I’m curious to smell the perfume after I have added this last ingredient.
You definitely want the prunella – it’s a very important component 🙂 I’m glad you found it!
We’ve had a telepathy shot 😄
Hi Florian,
have you ever bought ingredients from Liaison Carbone? I’m a bit worried because the site is very simple, it doesn’t offer order tracking and I only have the PayPal transition code in my hand. I sent them an email and I also tried to call them but they don’t answer. I hope you have had good experiences with them… 😐