I have always loved that dark, powdery, mossy heart that is so ubiquitous in the fragrances from the 80’s. One to note is “Zino” by Davidoff. This base is inspired by the heart and base of Zino and, to my nose, captures that punch that makes these fragrances so powerful, bold, masculine, and beautiful. Another fragrance to note would be “Pour Lui” by Oscar de la Renta, it is a bit brighter herbal than Davidoff’s Zino but has that stanky oakmossy kick.
The patchouli, ambrettolide, and beta ionone add a tenacious warm powdery character that rests beautifully on the mossy undertones of the oakmoss and veramoss. This is complemented by the civet absolute, which in my opinion is the defining character, and vetiver to give it that punchy, punctual presence. To round things off the habanolide, vertofix and ambroxan come in to make things smooth as silk. Lastly, the bergamot and linalyl acetate give it that nice sparkle that rests on top.
This base can be used to build your own monstrous powerhouse that has that punch and audacity as the decade it comes from.
Many thanks to Jamie for allowing me to share this with you guys! I hope it leads to new creations and understanding for all of you and I am sure I will grow myself from the feedback I receive!
[Note From Jamie: Frank Saunders, one of our regular readers and patrons, has offered this base formula along with a few fragrance formulas to the site for publication so we can all learn from his work and grow our formula workbooks. Thanks Frank!]
|325||Iso E Super|
|70||Patchouli||-Clearwood can be used as well.|
|65||Ambrettolide||-Musk Ambrette could absolutely be used here!|
|25||Bergamot 104 (Givaudan)|
|15||Vetiverol||Sub: Vetacetex or some other vetiver base will work.|
|115||Oakmoss Absolute 10%|
|10||Cinnamon Leaf EO|
|10||Musk Ketone 50%|
|5||Vetiver||-Indonesian vetiver is best.|
|5||Miel Oliffac||Honey base by IFF|